August 16, 2012
8332 kilometres
42 days
21 different beds
9 countries
3 oceans
?? $ . . . but worth every cent, no matter how much it cost us.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Row on row
August 12 and 13, 2010
Throughout this trip we have seen countless vineyards, row on row of neatly planted grapevines making tidy lines across the landscape. Brilliantly green lush vines produce wines that breathe life into the economy and bring a liveliness to the dinner table.
Yesterday we saw more tidy lines, but this time they were row on row of neatly placed white marble crosses, 9,387 in all, each one marking the grave of a soldier who died on the D-Day beaches in 1944. The WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial above Omaha Beach houses headstones of only forty percent of those Americans who gave their lives to free Europe on those beaches; the remainder were buried at home. We also visited the Juno Beach Centre where Canadian forces landed and toured the informative Visitor Centre there. Besides the sheer numbers of soldiers who lost their lives in that assault, most disturbing for me was a photograph of a boatload of young men just about to land on the beach. The fear in their eyes was haunting. I couldn't help thinking that had I been born fifty years earlier, one of those frightened boys could have been my son. I will post my photos on Facebook, but even a video can't capture the sheer size of this cemetery, nor the sense of loss.
Today we are making the first step in our long trek home. We are driving from Dieppe on the west coast of France all the way across the country to Strasbourg in the east, near the border with Germany. We will return our car there tomorrow, then take the train to Zurich where we will fly from on Monday morning. We're ready to be home now and are looking forward to seeing our kids, sleeping in our own bed, and eating lots of fresh vegetables.
Throughout this trip we have seen countless vineyards, row on row of neatly planted grapevines making tidy lines across the landscape. Brilliantly green lush vines produce wines that breathe life into the economy and bring a liveliness to the dinner table.
Yesterday we saw more tidy lines, but this time they were row on row of neatly placed white marble crosses, 9,387 in all, each one marking the grave of a soldier who died on the D-Day beaches in 1944. The WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial above Omaha Beach houses headstones of only forty percent of those Americans who gave their lives to free Europe on those beaches; the remainder were buried at home. We also visited the Juno Beach Centre where Canadian forces landed and toured the informative Visitor Centre there. Besides the sheer numbers of soldiers who lost their lives in that assault, most disturbing for me was a photograph of a boatload of young men just about to land on the beach. The fear in their eyes was haunting. I couldn't help thinking that had I been born fifty years earlier, one of those frightened boys could have been my son. I will post my photos on Facebook, but even a video can't capture the sheer size of this cemetery, nor the sense of loss.
Today we are making the first step in our long trek home. We are driving from Dieppe on the west coast of France all the way across the country to Strasbourg in the east, near the border with Germany. We will return our car there tomorrow, then take the train to Zurich where we will fly from on Monday morning. We're ready to be home now and are looking forward to seeing our kids, sleeping in our own bed, and eating lots of fresh vegetables.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Fabulous French Cuisine . . .and Me Without My Camera!
August 12, 2010
Back in France and STILL love it.
Left Bruges and headed for Ieper (Ypres) to see the war memorial. Oh man, to see ALL those names of young men who died in WWI was very unsettling. The memorial is massive, forming an archway over the road leading to the town's main square. We also visited some of the many war cemeteries, all with white headstones, that are sprinkled throughout Flanders. Some of them had no names, so were simply inscribed," A Soldier of the Great War-- Known unto God".
The drive south to Dieppe was particularly beautiful and peaceful. Farmland rolling down to the sea, small villages, and those lovely white cows, Charlerois, I think they're called and yes, Andrea, they are "ripped".
Our hotel in Dieppe is one of only six right across from the beach. The beach is gorgeous! Smooth cobbles . . . breezy . . . waves . . . it is good to be back near the ocean again. We are right below the 13th Century castle. We wandered through the town, munched on a chocolate baguette, and enjoyed a glass of wine in the sunshine.
We had dinner here at the hotel, and it was our best meal yet. My Norseman Salade, which I thought would be a salad, turned out to be a gigantic plate of seafood, artfully presented on a small mound of greens. I actually ate raw oysters, lox, huge prawns, kippered herring and another type of unidentified fish. Den had a seafood terrine for his appetizer. For our main course, we had a chicken dish with shrimp and peanuts, mounded on top of a ring of toasted bread that was filled with carrots and zucchini. Dessert was a large framboise meringue. And where was my camera?
Back in France and STILL love it.
Left Bruges and headed for Ieper (Ypres) to see the war memorial. Oh man, to see ALL those names of young men who died in WWI was very unsettling. The memorial is massive, forming an archway over the road leading to the town's main square. We also visited some of the many war cemeteries, all with white headstones, that are sprinkled throughout Flanders. Some of them had no names, so were simply inscribed," A Soldier of the Great War-- Known unto God".
The drive south to Dieppe was particularly beautiful and peaceful. Farmland rolling down to the sea, small villages, and those lovely white cows, Charlerois, I think they're called and yes, Andrea, they are "ripped".
Our hotel in Dieppe is one of only six right across from the beach. The beach is gorgeous! Smooth cobbles . . . breezy . . . waves . . . it is good to be back near the ocean again. We are right below the 13th Century castle. We wandered through the town, munched on a chocolate baguette, and enjoyed a glass of wine in the sunshine.
We had dinner here at the hotel, and it was our best meal yet. My Norseman Salade, which I thought would be a salad, turned out to be a gigantic plate of seafood, artfully presented on a small mound of greens. I actually ate raw oysters, lox, huge prawns, kippered herring and another type of unidentified fish. Den had a seafood terrine for his appetizer. For our main course, we had a chicken dish with shrimp and peanuts, mounded on top of a ring of toasted bread that was filled with carrots and zucchini. Dessert was a large framboise meringue. And where was my camera?
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Imbibing in Bruges: beer, fries, waffles and chocolate!
August 10 and 11, 2011
Our two day stay in Bruges has been just the pick-me-up we needed at this point in our holiday. After a 6.5 hour trip from Rothenburg, our GPS led us right to our hotel (well almost) just around a corner from the Markt, the main city square. We didn't know what to expect, having just quickly picked this one through expedia without reading any reviews. It is beautiful! Our room is huge, has a sitting area with wing-backed chairs separated from the bedroom by French doors, looks out onto a common patio, and has wifi that works. The hotel also has a pool and sauna and a beautiful breakfast room complete with a grand piano. Enough about the room. This city is one to fall in love with.
Yesterday we just wandered and explored and tried out different bars in the afternoon and evening. We found a great little place called The Hobbit for dinner. While I had fully planned to resist the chocolate that is so plentiful here, Denis was a very bad influence. We tried seven flavours, voted, and coconut won by a landslide. Today we got serious about seeing this city properly. We let Rick Steves guide us around from the Kindle travel guide we bought for our iPad and saw all the sights.
Wednesday is market day in Bruges and the Markt was full of flowers, fruit, vegetables, cheese, cooked and fresh meats, and pastries early this morning. It seems to be serious business for local women as they select their supplies for the week, and either pack them in their reusable bags or in the baskets on their bikes. It amazes me how they navigate these cobblestone cities in their high heels. Even those riding bikes wear fancy footwear.
We toured the bell tower, Burg Square with all the different styles of architecture, the Basilica of the Holy Blood (now that's quite the story!) http://www.holyblood.com/EN/B.asp City Hall, the Church of Our Lady (with Michelangelo's peaceful statue of Mary with a young Jesus), took a canal ride, and went on a tour of a local brewery. Since there was a tiny hint of fall in the air at times today, I decided it was time to buy a few items of clothing. Who can resist these great fall fashions?
Speaking of resisting, we didn't deprive ourselves in the food department today either. We tried the local gaufres (waffles), frites (fries), and waterzooi (creamy chicken stew), and Denis has been a real trouper handling the tough job of sampling local beers.
Our two day stay in Bruges has been just the pick-me-up we needed at this point in our holiday. After a 6.5 hour trip from Rothenburg, our GPS led us right to our hotel (well almost) just around a corner from the Markt, the main city square. We didn't know what to expect, having just quickly picked this one through expedia without reading any reviews. It is beautiful! Our room is huge, has a sitting area with wing-backed chairs separated from the bedroom by French doors, looks out onto a common patio, and has wifi that works. The hotel also has a pool and sauna and a beautiful breakfast room complete with a grand piano. Enough about the room. This city is one to fall in love with.
Yesterday we just wandered and explored and tried out different bars in the afternoon and evening. We found a great little place called The Hobbit for dinner. While I had fully planned to resist the chocolate that is so plentiful here, Denis was a very bad influence. We tried seven flavours, voted, and coconut won by a landslide. Today we got serious about seeing this city properly. We let Rick Steves guide us around from the Kindle travel guide we bought for our iPad and saw all the sights.
Wednesday is market day in Bruges and the Markt was full of flowers, fruit, vegetables, cheese, cooked and fresh meats, and pastries early this morning. It seems to be serious business for local women as they select their supplies for the week, and either pack them in their reusable bags or in the baskets on their bikes. It amazes me how they navigate these cobblestone cities in their high heels. Even those riding bikes wear fancy footwear.
We toured the bell tower, Burg Square with all the different styles of architecture, the Basilica of the Holy Blood (now that's quite the story!) http://www.holyblood.com/EN/B.asp City Hall, the Church of Our Lady (with Michelangelo's peaceful statue of Mary with a young Jesus), took a canal ride, and went on a tour of a local brewery. Since there was a tiny hint of fall in the air at times today, I decided it was time to buy a few items of clothing. Who can resist these great fall fashions?
Speaking of resisting, we didn't deprive ourselves in the food department today either. We tried the local gaufres (waffles), frites (fries), and waterzooi (creamy chicken stew), and Denis has been a real trouper handling the tough job of sampling local beers.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Fairy Tale Villages and Schneeballen
August 9, 2010
Fairy Tale Villages and Schneeballen
The Romantic Road, das Romantische Strasse, in Bavaria is a definite must-see. Thanks, Andrea and Trevor, for suggesting that we include it on this trip. This route runs between Fussen in the south and Wurzberg in the north and connects a series of tiny medieval villages, farms and rolling hills. In the 1950's, the local towns cooperated to create this scenic route for tourists. The villages at which we stopped were walled cities, complete with well-preserved ramparts. We were immersed in the Middle Ages today.
Our first stop was Nordlingen, a town built on the site of a meteorite crater that hit the earth 15 million years ago. The circular wall of the city was constructed on the crater's edge making it perfectly round. We walked along the covered wall and poked around the town, exploring some of the shops in colourful, picturesque high gabled buildings. We bought a couple of Schneeballen, but wondered what all the fuss was about. The ones we had were just strips of pie pastry rolled into a ball, baked, and dusted with sugar.
Next stop: Dinkelsbuhl. Cuter than cute. Think Chemainus, multiply it by at least 1000 in terms of qualilty, then add hundreds of years of fascinating history, a moat, a wall, towers, cobblestones and window boxes and you have Dinkelsbuhl.
On to our destination for the night--Rothenburg ob der Tauber. It is touted as the best of the best on the Romantic Road, but we were a little disappointed. The town's historical value is outshone by the tourist shops which dominate the main streets. Beer steins, cuckoo clocks, Hummel figurines and Christmas decorations, all at inflated prices crowd every shop window.
We followed Rick Steves' advice to park outside the city wall and we dragged our luggage over the cobblestones several blocks to our hotel, (imagine the sound of that) only to find that the hotel had a secure parking garage, for a price, of course. It is a lovely old medieval building, our room is large, and beautifully decorated and has a balcony overlooking a small garden and a jumble of tiled rooftops.
As I took my estimated one hundred and seventy second picture of a narrow cobblestoned street today with much less enthusiasm than the first one hundred, I realized that we are just tired. Hips ache, legs are sore and feet hurt. We have driven over 6000 km and it feels like we have walked just as far, mostly uphill or on stairs. If Rothenburg had been one of our first sights, I suspect we would have been enthralled.
At dinner we saved room for the fancier Schneeballen we had seen, bought the chocolate and marzipan one that Andrea had recommended, but still couldn't see the attraction. We are off across the country to Bruges in Belgium tomorrow. Chocolate, here we come!
Fairy Tale Villages and Schneeballen
The Romantic Road, das Romantische Strasse, in Bavaria is a definite must-see. Thanks, Andrea and Trevor, for suggesting that we include it on this trip. This route runs between Fussen in the south and Wurzberg in the north and connects a series of tiny medieval villages, farms and rolling hills. In the 1950's, the local towns cooperated to create this scenic route for tourists. The villages at which we stopped were walled cities, complete with well-preserved ramparts. We were immersed in the Middle Ages today.
Our first stop was Nordlingen, a town built on the site of a meteorite crater that hit the earth 15 million years ago. The circular wall of the city was constructed on the crater's edge making it perfectly round. We walked along the covered wall and poked around the town, exploring some of the shops in colourful, picturesque high gabled buildings. We bought a couple of Schneeballen, but wondered what all the fuss was about. The ones we had were just strips of pie pastry rolled into a ball, baked, and dusted with sugar.
Next stop: Dinkelsbuhl. Cuter than cute. Think Chemainus, multiply it by at least 1000 in terms of qualilty, then add hundreds of years of fascinating history, a moat, a wall, towers, cobblestones and window boxes and you have Dinkelsbuhl.
On to our destination for the night--Rothenburg ob der Tauber. It is touted as the best of the best on the Romantic Road, but we were a little disappointed. The town's historical value is outshone by the tourist shops which dominate the main streets. Beer steins, cuckoo clocks, Hummel figurines and Christmas decorations, all at inflated prices crowd every shop window.
We followed Rick Steves' advice to park outside the city wall and we dragged our luggage over the cobblestones several blocks to our hotel, (imagine the sound of that) only to find that the hotel had a secure parking garage, for a price, of course. It is a lovely old medieval building, our room is large, and beautifully decorated and has a balcony overlooking a small garden and a jumble of tiled rooftops.
As I took my estimated one hundred and seventy second picture of a narrow cobblestoned street today with much less enthusiasm than the first one hundred, I realized that we are just tired. Hips ache, legs are sore and feet hurt. We have driven over 6000 km and it feels like we have walked just as far, mostly uphill or on stairs. If Rothenburg had been one of our first sights, I suspect we would have been enthralled.
At dinner we saved room for the fancier Schneeballen we had seen, bought the chocolate and marzipan one that Andrea had recommended, but still couldn't see the attraction. We are off across the country to Bruges in Belgium tomorrow. Chocolate, here we come!
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Thunderstorms, traffic waits, a castle and a Brauhaus!
August 8, 2010
Wow!
So much happened today it is already hard to remember everything.
Left Bolzano after a continental breakfast in the hotel during which we booked two nights in a hotel on the beach in Dieppe.
Went through the Brenner Pass. Absolutely spectacular scenery. Looming mountains, terraced hillsides, tiny villages, geranium flower boxes. Beautiful.
Crossed the border into Austria and headed towards Innsbruck. Got caught in a traffic hold up for half an hour. Sang along with sappy country music on the iPod and actually enjoyed it.
Stopped and had coffee and shared a muffin. Should have had the apple strudel. When in Rome . . . you know.
Reached Fussen just over the border into Germany. Since we were trying to navigate without a map today (foolish) we parked in the wrong P 4 parking lot, and ended up having the most expensive bathroom break--parking lot fee plus a coffee so we could use the restaurant's bathroom.
Corrected ourselves and headed for the Neuschwanstein castle. Another expensive mistake. Bought the parking ticket for 4.5 euros, walked through the pouring rain, had a look at the length of the line for the bus to take us up to the castle and agreed that (a) this would not be a life-changing experience, and (b) photos from the parking lot would be just fine.
Headed up the Romantic Road through yet more incredible scenery. I "omg"ed it for most of the way. Rolling green hills, happy cows, tidy farm houses bedecked with
geraniums, even their woodpiles were tidy. Loved it.
Arrived in Munich and our (at the moment) beloved GPS led us straight to our hotel. We've discovered the secret to getting a great hotel room: pay more! In a Sheraton tonight. So glad to have a super comfortable bed even though the hotel lacks the personality of the great B&B's we have had.
Proud of ourselves tonight. Our goal for Munich was to revisit Marienplatz and to eat in a Brauhaus. This required taking the subway. We actually figured it out and got off at the right spot. Pretty good for two people who don't speak German. As soon as we came up the stairs out of the subway, we remembered why we loved Munich the first time we were here. It is such an exciting city and such a well-orchestrated mix of the old and the new. Just as we were about to watch the glockenspiel in Marienplatz, the main square, the skies let loose and it started pouring. We ran to a covered area and tried to wait it out. We had been looking for a particular brauhaus (without a map . . . ) but found another one. Loved it! A true Bavarian experience. It was a typical old style German beer house, complete with a boar's head, antlers, rifles, beer kegs, and steins. We broke with our non-meat habits and ordered beer and weiner schnitzel. When in Rome . . .
A perfect end to the day was walking back through the square under a rainbow (no kidding) and stopping to listen to a chamber music group playing Pachabel's Canon.
Wow!
Wow!
So much happened today it is already hard to remember everything.
Left Bolzano after a continental breakfast in the hotel during which we booked two nights in a hotel on the beach in Dieppe.
Went through the Brenner Pass. Absolutely spectacular scenery. Looming mountains, terraced hillsides, tiny villages, geranium flower boxes. Beautiful.
Crossed the border into Austria and headed towards Innsbruck. Got caught in a traffic hold up for half an hour. Sang along with sappy country music on the iPod and actually enjoyed it.
Stopped and had coffee and shared a muffin. Should have had the apple strudel. When in Rome . . . you know.
Reached Fussen just over the border into Germany. Since we were trying to navigate without a map today (foolish) we parked in the wrong P 4 parking lot, and ended up having the most expensive bathroom break--parking lot fee plus a coffee so we could use the restaurant's bathroom.
Corrected ourselves and headed for the Neuschwanstein castle. Another expensive mistake. Bought the parking ticket for 4.5 euros, walked through the pouring rain, had a look at the length of the line for the bus to take us up to the castle and agreed that (a) this would not be a life-changing experience, and (b) photos from the parking lot would be just fine.
Headed up the Romantic Road through yet more incredible scenery. I "omg"ed it for most of the way. Rolling green hills, happy cows, tidy farm houses bedecked with
geraniums, even their woodpiles were tidy. Loved it.
Arrived in Munich and our (at the moment) beloved GPS led us straight to our hotel. We've discovered the secret to getting a great hotel room: pay more! In a Sheraton tonight. So glad to have a super comfortable bed even though the hotel lacks the personality of the great B&B's we have had.
Proud of ourselves tonight. Our goal for Munich was to revisit Marienplatz and to eat in a Brauhaus. This required taking the subway. We actually figured it out and got off at the right spot. Pretty good for two people who don't speak German. As soon as we came up the stairs out of the subway, we remembered why we loved Munich the first time we were here. It is such an exciting city and such a well-orchestrated mix of the old and the new. Just as we were about to watch the glockenspiel in Marienplatz, the main square, the skies let loose and it started pouring. We ran to a covered area and tried to wait it out. We had been looking for a particular brauhaus (without a map . . . ) but found another one. Loved it! A true Bavarian experience. It was a typical old style German beer house, complete with a boar's head, antlers, rifles, beer kegs, and steins. We broke with our non-meat habits and ordered beer and weiner schnitzel. When in Rome . . .
A perfect end to the day was walking back through the square under a rainbow (no kidding) and stopping to listen to a chamber music group playing Pachabel's Canon.
Wow!
Get a bigger cup
August 7, 2010
Today we had what we call "a travel moment", one of those experiences that you want to last forever and that you know you will never forget.
We drove north from here in Bolzano to a tiny town called Castelrotto, poked around a bit, decided we weren't dressed warmly enough and went back to change. It's chilly being up this high in the mountains.
Being up on the Suisi Alm, the largest alpine meadow in Europe was an amazing experience. We took a cable car up the mountain from Suisi, then another one further up into the meadow. Sitting there looking over the meadows and the alpine huts, hearing the tinkling cow bells, and breathing in the fresh mountain air was simply indescribable. There are not enough adjectives in the English language. Even photos cannot capture the beauty of this spot. You will just have to come here. Soon. Den and I agree that this is a day that will be etched in our memories forever.
Earlier on this trip we decided our philosophy was to "Fill up the life we have." We have expanded on that. Now our goal is simply to "get a bigger cup" :)
Today we had what we call "a travel moment", one of those experiences that you want to last forever and that you know you will never forget.
We drove north from here in Bolzano to a tiny town called Castelrotto, poked around a bit, decided we weren't dressed warmly enough and went back to change. It's chilly being up this high in the mountains.
Being up on the Suisi Alm, the largest alpine meadow in Europe was an amazing experience. We took a cable car up the mountain from Suisi, then another one further up into the meadow. Sitting there looking over the meadows and the alpine huts, hearing the tinkling cow bells, and breathing in the fresh mountain air was simply indescribable. There are not enough adjectives in the English language. Even photos cannot capture the beauty of this spot. You will just have to come here. Soon. Den and I agree that this is a day that will be etched in our memories forever.
Earlier on this trip we decided our philosophy was to "Fill up the life we have." We have expanded on that. Now our goal is simply to "get a bigger cup" :)
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Otzi, the Ice Man. We're in Tyrol!
August 6, 2010
Today we drove from Trieste, past Venice and Verona, then straight north to Bolzano. The landscape changed almost immediately as we entered a mountain pass through the Dolomite region. This area is stunningly beautiful--tiny villages nestled into the mountains, green velvet meadows, tidy terraced vineyards--and we began to see the Tyrol influence in Bavarian style houses with geranium flower boxes.
We had a heck of a time trying to find our hotel. The GPS doesn't always recognize that some streets are one-way and that others are pedestrian-only . . . and there are a lot of both in Bolzano! We were totally frustrated trying to find a place to park, and finally left the car in a handicapped zone outside a church. We found our hotel on foot, followed the hotelier's directions for where to park, and settled in. This is yet another great hotel. We have a big room, complete with a sitting area, a huge bathroom, and we are one of two rooms on the top floor. We're calling it the penthouse.
We had a fascinating afternoon in the Ice Man Archaeological Museum. It is the home of Otzi, a 5000 year old man whose frozen and preserved body was found in a nearby mountain area by hikers in 1991. Even his clothes were well preserved. Scientists have been able to determine his age, his health conditions (he had arthritis), his recent injury (he had been shot with an arrowhead), and even his last meal (by examining the contents of his stomach). The museum had fabulous displays of local Copper, Bronze, Iron Age, and Roman artifacts.
Today we drove from Trieste, past Venice and Verona, then straight north to Bolzano. The landscape changed almost immediately as we entered a mountain pass through the Dolomite region. This area is stunningly beautiful--tiny villages nestled into the mountains, green velvet meadows, tidy terraced vineyards--and we began to see the Tyrol influence in Bavarian style houses with geranium flower boxes.
We had a heck of a time trying to find our hotel. The GPS doesn't always recognize that some streets are one-way and that others are pedestrian-only . . . and there are a lot of both in Bolzano! We were totally frustrated trying to find a place to park, and finally left the car in a handicapped zone outside a church. We found our hotel on foot, followed the hotelier's directions for where to park, and settled in. This is yet another great hotel. We have a big room, complete with a sitting area, a huge bathroom, and we are one of two rooms on the top floor. We're calling it the penthouse.
We had a fascinating afternoon in the Ice Man Archaeological Museum. It is the home of Otzi, a 5000 year old man whose frozen and preserved body was found in a nearby mountain area by hikers in 1991. Even his clothes were well preserved. Scientists have been able to determine his age, his health conditions (he had arthritis), his recent injury (he had been shot with an arrowhead), and even his last meal (by examining the contents of his stomach). The museum had fabulous displays of local Copper, Bronze, Iron Age, and Roman artifacts.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Bella Italia---it's good to be back
August 5, 2010
Bella Italia -- It's Good to be Back!
The Italians know how to do things right.
Love our hotel. Cute. Comfy. Clean. Breakfast included.
Downtown for an aperitif. An order of a beer and a glass of wine comes on a silver tray with olives, cocktail sandwiches, nuts, and two kinds of chips. No extra charge. Also no extra charge for the decor--ornate ceilings and rich wood detail. Lace cloth. Good conversation. We agree that we don't tire of talking to each other.
Walk in the rain past Renaissance architecture and a Roman amphitheatre. Leather boots in store windows. Italian leather. Fall fashions. Nubby sweaters and narrow pants. Italian fashions. Bellissimo.
Doesn't even matter that it's still raining. Bella Italia. Good to be back.
Bella Italia -- It's Good to be Back!
The Italians know how to do things right.
Love our hotel. Cute. Comfy. Clean. Breakfast included.
Downtown for an aperitif. An order of a beer and a glass of wine comes on a silver tray with olives, cocktail sandwiches, nuts, and two kinds of chips. No extra charge. Also no extra charge for the decor--ornate ceilings and rich wood detail. Lace cloth. Good conversation. We agree that we don't tire of talking to each other.
Walk in the rain past Renaissance architecture and a Roman amphitheatre. Leather boots in store windows. Italian leather. Fall fashions. Nubby sweaters and narrow pants. Italian fashions. Bellissimo.
Doesn't even matter that it's still raining. Bella Italia. Good to be back.
Split . . .before we split
August 4, 2010
Split . . . before we split!
Diocletian's Palace. The largest and best preserved Roman ruins in Europe. And we got to see it.
The ferry ride from Slatine to Split was only 17 kunas each (about $3.50) and was a beautiful trip in calm water. The old town area of Split is divided into two parts, Diocletian's Palace dating from Roman times and the adjacent market area that spilled out of the palace during the medieval period. The palace is huge, about 600 feet on each side and was built right on the shoreline in a protected harbour with a fabulous view of the Adriatic, a fitting home for a self-indulgent tyrannical Roman ruler. We were able to tour the inside and see the different chambers. Most interesting to me was the fact that archaeological work is still ongoing. In the ceiling of one main hall were large holes that had been gouged out of the stone floor. These were apparently created by the residents who lived on the upper floor. They dropped all of their waste down the holes into the room below. Over the years the smelly garbage dump solidified and became an archaeologist's dream and a major source of historical artifacts. Some of these deposits are still waiting to be excavated. It boggles the mind to imagine how a structure such as this was built that long ago, all of huge heavy stone. Mind you, 2000 slaves died during its construction. No safety standards or WCB here.
The adjacent Renaissance cathedral and other buildings were just as interesting, as they were built right on the Roman structures. The contrast of old and new was very apparent in Split. A modern bank has incorporated an existing Roman column and floor into its design.
What struck me the most here was this region's troubled history, from the very earliest times. In the 7th century, it was under attack by Slavs, in later centuries by the Turks, the Venetians, the French, and of course, the last decade saw the war with Serbia. Other than the natural scenic beauty of the Dalmatian Coast, it seems an unlikely place over which to fight. The environment is harsh--rocky soil, scrubby vegetation, and seemingly little choice agricultural land, at least in the part we have seen. To our ears, even the language sounds harsh, compared to the smooth French and the dramatic Italian. You have to admire people who have persisted to make this land their home. I have found myself looking at women my age and wondering what horrors they experienced during the war. Is that pile of rubble in their yard the remains of their former house? Did they lose their home? Did they lose a child?
Split . . . before we split!
Diocletian's Palace. The largest and best preserved Roman ruins in Europe. And we got to see it.
The ferry ride from Slatine to Split was only 17 kunas each (about $3.50) and was a beautiful trip in calm water. The old town area of Split is divided into two parts, Diocletian's Palace dating from Roman times and the adjacent market area that spilled out of the palace during the medieval period. The palace is huge, about 600 feet on each side and was built right on the shoreline in a protected harbour with a fabulous view of the Adriatic, a fitting home for a self-indulgent tyrannical Roman ruler. We were able to tour the inside and see the different chambers. Most interesting to me was the fact that archaeological work is still ongoing. In the ceiling of one main hall were large holes that had been gouged out of the stone floor. These were apparently created by the residents who lived on the upper floor. They dropped all of their waste down the holes into the room below. Over the years the smelly garbage dump solidified and became an archaeologist's dream and a major source of historical artifacts. Some of these deposits are still waiting to be excavated. It boggles the mind to imagine how a structure such as this was built that long ago, all of huge heavy stone. Mind you, 2000 slaves died during its construction. No safety standards or WCB here.
The adjacent Renaissance cathedral and other buildings were just as interesting, as they were built right on the Roman structures. The contrast of old and new was very apparent in Split. A modern bank has incorporated an existing Roman column and floor into its design.
What struck me the most here was this region's troubled history, from the very earliest times. In the 7th century, it was under attack by Slavs, in later centuries by the Turks, the Venetians, the French, and of course, the last decade saw the war with Serbia. Other than the natural scenic beauty of the Dalmatian Coast, it seems an unlikely place over which to fight. The environment is harsh--rocky soil, scrubby vegetation, and seemingly little choice agricultural land, at least in the part we have seen. To our ears, even the language sounds harsh, compared to the smooth French and the dramatic Italian. You have to admire people who have persisted to make this land their home. I have found myself looking at women my age and wondering what horrors they experienced during the war. Is that pile of rubble in their yard the remains of their former house? Did they lose their home? Did they lose a child?
Krka National Park and Travel Planning
August 3, 2010
Up early to beat the traffic into Togir (we have been told it is jammed from 7:30 to 11:00 a.m.) We took the coast road north through a series of small resort villages to Sibenik. The Dalmatian Coast has spectacular scenery: white houses with red roofs set against the backdrop of the blue Adriatic. Krka National Park was about an hour away. It encompasses the Krka River and large waterfalls formed from travertine. We hiked along the boardwalk trail but didn't swim in the falls. Much too slimey for me.
The area in which we are staying is popular with young Croatian or British families. It is just not for us. We are spoiled, I guess. The beaches here are all sharp rocks, so most people use air mattresses or floating toys to enjoy the water. Every square meter of the beach is packed with people sun-tanning (and smoking). The strip of beach is very narrow, so in many spots it seems as if people are just lying in the dirt at the edge of the walkway. Beach bars line the strip wherever there is room. It is crowded, noisy, busy, and hot. Most accommodation is in apartments which are in 6 to 8 suite apartment buildings jammed one on top of another on the hillsides leading to the sea. We have not been able to figure out any sort of logical pattern for the road system in this area. It seems more like a labyrinth and the roads are so narrow and windy that it is impossible to tell the difference between a roadway and a driveway. Okrug Gornji, the community here, is on the island of Ciovo which is connected to Trogir by a bridge. Trogir is about 30 km from Split. I should have looked into this in more depth before I booked it as it is quite a hassle to leave the area and much too far from Dubrovnik to make a day trip.
So . . . we made a mutual decision to leave three days early despite the fact that we have already paid for those nights. We found an internet shop in Trogir and started booking spots for the remainder of our vacation. We will take a boat to Split tomorrow, explore the town and then head back north on Thursday.
Up early to beat the traffic into Togir (we have been told it is jammed from 7:30 to 11:00 a.m.) We took the coast road north through a series of small resort villages to Sibenik. The Dalmatian Coast has spectacular scenery: white houses with red roofs set against the backdrop of the blue Adriatic. Krka National Park was about an hour away. It encompasses the Krka River and large waterfalls formed from travertine. We hiked along the boardwalk trail but didn't swim in the falls. Much too slimey for me.
The area in which we are staying is popular with young Croatian or British families. It is just not for us. We are spoiled, I guess. The beaches here are all sharp rocks, so most people use air mattresses or floating toys to enjoy the water. Every square meter of the beach is packed with people sun-tanning (and smoking). The strip of beach is very narrow, so in many spots it seems as if people are just lying in the dirt at the edge of the walkway. Beach bars line the strip wherever there is room. It is crowded, noisy, busy, and hot. Most accommodation is in apartments which are in 6 to 8 suite apartment buildings jammed one on top of another on the hillsides leading to the sea. We have not been able to figure out any sort of logical pattern for the road system in this area. It seems more like a labyrinth and the roads are so narrow and windy that it is impossible to tell the difference between a roadway and a driveway. Okrug Gornji, the community here, is on the island of Ciovo which is connected to Trogir by a bridge. Trogir is about 30 km from Split. I should have looked into this in more depth before I booked it as it is quite a hassle to leave the area and much too far from Dubrovnik to make a day trip.
So . . . we made a mutual decision to leave three days early despite the fact that we have already paid for those nights. We found an internet shop in Trogir and started booking spots for the remainder of our vacation. We will take a boat to Split tomorrow, explore the town and then head back north on Thursday.
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Okrug Gornji here we are!
August 2, 2010
Well, we are here and while it is not what we had expected, we are going to make the most of our time here. Today we decided to just explore the nearby town of Trogir. We walked along the rocky beach from our apartment here in Okrug Gornji, stepping over sun-bathers, to the ferry dock and took a boat for the 15 minute trip to Trogir. It is a cute little town with a Roman fortress, lots of narrow alleys to explore, restaurants galore, and a wide palm-tree lined promenade all along the shoreline. Apparently this is a destination for celebrities who arrive on their large yachts. We had lunch in a little alley cafe and then headed back.
This afternoon we found out how to take a ferry to Split and drove across the island to find the dock. Driving across the island was very stressful for me and I wasn't even the driver! Narrow roads, no shoulders, motorcycles weaving in and out, cars squeezing by each other and pedestrians all over the road made me crazy. I thought after 36 years of marriage that I knew everything there was to know about Denis, but I learned today that he can be perfectly calm and rational in crazy situations. We plan to make the trip there again on Wednesday and spend the day in Split.
While we are not sure if this area was bombed during the civil war in the early 1990's, there certainly seems to be evidence of it. Most buildings seem to have new red tile roofs. There are lots of vacant lots with old foundations on them, and piles of rubble, now overgrown with weeds. Many of the local roads are a patchwork of rough concrete and asphalt--a real mess. What these people endured is unimaginable, especially for me when I think of my peaceful, tidy neighbourhood.
Tomorrow we are heading to Krk National Park where we can swim in the waterfalls. Should be fun.
Highlight of the day? Hearing Laura's voice on the phone. :)
Well, we are here and while it is not what we had expected, we are going to make the most of our time here. Today we decided to just explore the nearby town of Trogir. We walked along the rocky beach from our apartment here in Okrug Gornji, stepping over sun-bathers, to the ferry dock and took a boat for the 15 minute trip to Trogir. It is a cute little town with a Roman fortress, lots of narrow alleys to explore, restaurants galore, and a wide palm-tree lined promenade all along the shoreline. Apparently this is a destination for celebrities who arrive on their large yachts. We had lunch in a little alley cafe and then headed back.
This afternoon we found out how to take a ferry to Split and drove across the island to find the dock. Driving across the island was very stressful for me and I wasn't even the driver! Narrow roads, no shoulders, motorcycles weaving in and out, cars squeezing by each other and pedestrians all over the road made me crazy. I thought after 36 years of marriage that I knew everything there was to know about Denis, but I learned today that he can be perfectly calm and rational in crazy situations. We plan to make the trip there again on Wednesday and spend the day in Split.
While we are not sure if this area was bombed during the civil war in the early 1990's, there certainly seems to be evidence of it. Most buildings seem to have new red tile roofs. There are lots of vacant lots with old foundations on them, and piles of rubble, now overgrown with weeds. Many of the local roads are a patchwork of rough concrete and asphalt--a real mess. What these people endured is unimaginable, especially for me when I think of my peaceful, tidy neighbourhood.
Tomorrow we are heading to Krk National Park where we can swim in the waterfalls. Should be fun.
Highlight of the day? Hearing Laura's voice on the phone. :)
Culturre Shock in Croatia
August 1, 2010
Culture Shock in Croatia
We spent a long day driving on the autostrada, all the way from Venice to Trogir, near Split, here in Croatia. Coming through Slovenia on the way was particularly scenic--green hillsides and small meadows and red-roofed villages. Most of the trip through central Croatia was quite boring as we were on the motorway, and the landscape is fairly uniform with dry rocky hills and lots of tunnels.
Arriving in Trogir and making our way to the apartment we have rented for a week in Okrug Gornji, a small resort town on the island of Ciovo, was quite an experience. To say the roads in this area are narrow is an understatement. We often had to pull over to make way for oncoming traffic. This town is a jumble of roads which seem like driveways amidst hundreds of apartment blocks. We finally found the address of the woman who manages this apartment (I rented it from Paul Somebody in Britain), and she took us to the apartment. While it is, I suppose, exactly as was described on the website, it is not as lovely as I had expected. The beach is only 50 metres away, true, but it is a narrow rocky bit of shoreline jam packed with tourists and holidayers who love to smoke and get their bodies very brown.
We found a market, bought some groceries and cooked our dinner before heading to bed (a squeaky one). Tomorrow will be better. Feeling a little homesick as we have been away for a month now.
Culture Shock in Croatia
We spent a long day driving on the autostrada, all the way from Venice to Trogir, near Split, here in Croatia. Coming through Slovenia on the way was particularly scenic--green hillsides and small meadows and red-roofed villages. Most of the trip through central Croatia was quite boring as we were on the motorway, and the landscape is fairly uniform with dry rocky hills and lots of tunnels.
Arriving in Trogir and making our way to the apartment we have rented for a week in Okrug Gornji, a small resort town on the island of Ciovo, was quite an experience. To say the roads in this area are narrow is an understatement. We often had to pull over to make way for oncoming traffic. This town is a jumble of roads which seem like driveways amidst hundreds of apartment blocks. We finally found the address of the woman who manages this apartment (I rented it from Paul Somebody in Britain), and she took us to the apartment. While it is, I suppose, exactly as was described on the website, it is not as lovely as I had expected. The beach is only 50 metres away, true, but it is a narrow rocky bit of shoreline jam packed with tourists and holidayers who love to smoke and get their bodies very brown.
We found a market, bought some groceries and cooked our dinner before heading to bed (a squeaky one). Tomorrow will be better. Feeling a little homesick as we have been away for a month now.
Day Two in Venice and a phone call home
July 31, 2010
Day 2 in Venice and a phone call home.
Well, the Villa Stucky redeemed itself. Breakfast was excellent. The room itself was enough, never mind the food. The breakfast room is large with several small round tables, all with pink floor length tablecloths, delicate Murano glass chandeliers and red draperies. We were bad and had dessert for breakfast as these Italians seem to do: apple torte, a Nutella croissant, fruit salad, yogurt, and a mocacchino.
We're old pro's at the train system now :) We arrived in Venice early and decided to just wander our way down the canal instead of taking the vaporetto today. I found the leather purse I had coveted yesterday in a little shop today and it was 3 euros cheaper, so I celebrated by buying a gorgeous scarf too. We spent the morning just poking around, weaving in and out of those narrow little alleys, up and over canals. We had a lousy lunch that I believe Venice is famous for, and wandered some more.
We headed back to the hotel later in the afternoon to see if we could get any internet access, but had no luck. I'm doubtful that we will have wi-fi at our apartment in Croatia so I called and booked two places, one in the Dolomites and one in Rothenburg for the first week in August. I then realized that I really needed internet access and I really needed my first class personal travel agent, so I phoned Andrea for help. It was so good to hear Trevor's voice, to hear Lexi say "hi Grandma" and to talk to Andrea for awhile. Sure miss everyone at home . . .
Had a great dinner in a trattoria just down the street. Cheaper than our lousy lunch.
We're ready to move on from Italy now and are excited about being in Croatia tomorrow. Another new adventure!
Day 2 in Venice and a phone call home.
Well, the Villa Stucky redeemed itself. Breakfast was excellent. The room itself was enough, never mind the food. The breakfast room is large with several small round tables, all with pink floor length tablecloths, delicate Murano glass chandeliers and red draperies. We were bad and had dessert for breakfast as these Italians seem to do: apple torte, a Nutella croissant, fruit salad, yogurt, and a mocacchino.
We're old pro's at the train system now :) We arrived in Venice early and decided to just wander our way down the canal instead of taking the vaporetto today. I found the leather purse I had coveted yesterday in a little shop today and it was 3 euros cheaper, so I celebrated by buying a gorgeous scarf too. We spent the morning just poking around, weaving in and out of those narrow little alleys, up and over canals. We had a lousy lunch that I believe Venice is famous for, and wandered some more.
We headed back to the hotel later in the afternoon to see if we could get any internet access, but had no luck. I'm doubtful that we will have wi-fi at our apartment in Croatia so I called and booked two places, one in the Dolomites and one in Rothenburg for the first week in August. I then realized that I really needed internet access and I really needed my first class personal travel agent, so I phoned Andrea for help. It was so good to hear Trevor's voice, to hear Lexi say "hi Grandma" and to talk to Andrea for awhile. Sure miss everyone at home . . .
Had a great dinner in a trattoria just down the street. Cheaper than our lousy lunch.
We're ready to move on from Italy now and are excited about being in Croatia tomorrow. Another new adventure!
A Villa in Venice!
July 30, 2010
A Villa in Venice
We arrived in Venice early this afternoon and after a bit of confusion on the part of our usually beloved GPS, found our hotel. I was, as usual, apprehensive about what this one would be like, but particularly so because Denis had booked it! Aaargh! Out of my control! And with a name like Villa Stucky it sounded like a dump to me.
We broke out laughing once we finally found it, as it was certainly not what we were expecting. It is a stately and very ornate 300 year old villa, built by some Countess, that has been converted to a hotel. The furnishings are over-the-top elegant: rich brocade chairs and settees, velvet drapes, Murano glass chandeliers everywhere you look, inlaid floors, red carpets in the hallways, red velvet handrail, frescoed ceilings, and so on. It is almost like a museum as there are old photographs and curio cabinets displaying silver pieces and other objects that obviously belonged to the family. Outside the opulence continues: a white stone fountain and gazebo, statues, and lovely grounds. Someone commented today that it is almost like Versailles! Now we remember why he booked it--it is a 5 minute walk to the train station and a 20 minute train ride to the vaporetto station in Venice. No driving or parking to worry about in a pedestrian-only city.
We spent the afternoon in Venice, remembering parts of it from our first trip here. It really is a unique city that everyone should have the chance to experience. We took the vaporetto down the entire length of the Grand Canal and spent the rest of our time wandering. We found an odd little bar where we had a light dinner. Odd is an understatement. The entire ceiling was decorated with bras. That's right. Bras. Hundreds of them. All hanging neatly in rows from the ceiling. I guess every business needs a gimmick. Anyway, the ravioli with gorgonzola was delish.
Once we returned to our hotel, our initial favorable impression faded somewhat. No wi-fi. Internet access by cable only. Who still does that? We were offered internet service for a price, 5 euros for 1 hour and so on, but the girl at the desk admitted that the service was unreliable. Great. Back in the room, we found that we had one towel, one cup, and pillows so flat they must have belonged to Countess What's-her-name 300 years ago. Breakfast better be more than a bun with jam or the Villa Stucky will simply not make the Nessman's top ten list. And if that town clock chimes all night long it definitely won't.
Heading back into Venice to explore those little back alleys and canals tomorrow.
A Villa in Venice
We arrived in Venice early this afternoon and after a bit of confusion on the part of our usually beloved GPS, found our hotel. I was, as usual, apprehensive about what this one would be like, but particularly so because Denis had booked it! Aaargh! Out of my control! And with a name like Villa Stucky it sounded like a dump to me.
We broke out laughing once we finally found it, as it was certainly not what we were expecting. It is a stately and very ornate 300 year old villa, built by some Countess, that has been converted to a hotel. The furnishings are over-the-top elegant: rich brocade chairs and settees, velvet drapes, Murano glass chandeliers everywhere you look, inlaid floors, red carpets in the hallways, red velvet handrail, frescoed ceilings, and so on. It is almost like a museum as there are old photographs and curio cabinets displaying silver pieces and other objects that obviously belonged to the family. Outside the opulence continues: a white stone fountain and gazebo, statues, and lovely grounds. Someone commented today that it is almost like Versailles! Now we remember why he booked it--it is a 5 minute walk to the train station and a 20 minute train ride to the vaporetto station in Venice. No driving or parking to worry about in a pedestrian-only city.
We spent the afternoon in Venice, remembering parts of it from our first trip here. It really is a unique city that everyone should have the chance to experience. We took the vaporetto down the entire length of the Grand Canal and spent the rest of our time wandering. We found an odd little bar where we had a light dinner. Odd is an understatement. The entire ceiling was decorated with bras. That's right. Bras. Hundreds of them. All hanging neatly in rows from the ceiling. I guess every business needs a gimmick. Anyway, the ravioli with gorgonzola was delish.
Once we returned to our hotel, our initial favorable impression faded somewhat. No wi-fi. Internet access by cable only. Who still does that? We were offered internet service for a price, 5 euros for 1 hour and so on, but the girl at the desk admitted that the service was unreliable. Great. Back in the room, we found that we had one towel, one cup, and pillows so flat they must have belonged to Countess What's-her-name 300 years ago. Breakfast better be more than a bun with jam or the Villa Stucky will simply not make the Nessman's top ten list. And if that town clock chimes all night long it definitely won't.
Heading back into Venice to explore those little back alleys and canals tomorrow.
Florence in the rain
July 29, 2010
As much as we loved every moment in Assisi staying at Alla Madonna del Piatto www.incampagna.com we were only a little sad to leave because each day over here holds new adventures and surprises. We headed for Firenze (Florence) and decided to stop in Cortona on the way. Having read and watched the movie Under the Tuscan Sun which is set in Cortona, we just had to stop and see if we recognized any of the scenery (we did) or if we could actually find the house, Bramisole (we did not). Apparently the author, Frances Mayes still lives here for part of each year in the villa she renovated with her husband and they are respected members of the community. Cortona is a town to which we would return.
Come to think of it, Letizia and her husband, Ruurd, our hosts at the B&B in Assisi, had a similar experience to the couple in the Tuscan Sun story. Letizia is Italian, Ruurd is Dutch. Letizia lived in the States for ten years where she obtained her PhD in entymology; Ruurd is also an entymologist. They found their old farmhouse, parts of which date from the 1500's, high in the hills above the town of Assisi, and knew they had to have it. After what must have been a tremendous amount of hard work, they renovated it into a six room bed and breakfast. During the construction, she discovered a plate with a picture of the Madonna, hence the name she chose for the house, Alla Madonna del Piatto. The view and the sense of peace from their home is indescribable. You will just have to come here.
Anyway, I digress. From Cortona, we took the autostrada to Firenze and arrived right at the beginning of a thunderstorm. I couldn't recall much about why I had reserved the hotel I had, so, once again I was a little concerned. Scored again! The Hotel David is in a perfect location, just a 15 minute walk from the main Piazza della Signoria close to all the must-sees. It has free everything: free parking, free wi-fi, free (fabulous) breakfast, free mini-bar (yes, eat and drink the whole frig full), free 10 minute phone call to pretty much anywhere in the world, and free happy hour in their beautiful old lounge complete with a table full of appetizers. Stay here. It's a good one. We haven't had a bad place yet.
So far on this trip, Florence is the only city that we visited when we came to Europe the first time. We loved it then, and we actually made a second visit to it on that trip. We have to admit we were disappointed today. It was crawling with tourists and tour groups and there were lines to see all the major sites which we knew required tickets to be purchased online in advance. We were thankful that we had the opportunity years ago to see the statue of David, the Duomo, the bell tower, etc., because they are definitely sights not to be missed.
It was sort of fun to get caught in a second thunderstorm later in the afternoon, although I don't think Den would agree. We huddled under awnings on the Ponte de Vecchio with hundreds of others, waiting for the rain to stop pelting. Back at the hotel, happy hour and some good conversation with other hotel guests cheered us up and made us temporarily forget about the bus ride home that took three times as long as if we had chosen to walk.
As much as we loved every moment in Assisi staying at Alla Madonna del Piatto www.incampagna.com we were only a little sad to leave because each day over here holds new adventures and surprises. We headed for Firenze (Florence) and decided to stop in Cortona on the way. Having read and watched the movie Under the Tuscan Sun which is set in Cortona, we just had to stop and see if we recognized any of the scenery (we did) or if we could actually find the house, Bramisole (we did not). Apparently the author, Frances Mayes still lives here for part of each year in the villa she renovated with her husband and they are respected members of the community. Cortona is a town to which we would return.
Come to think of it, Letizia and her husband, Ruurd, our hosts at the B&B in Assisi, had a similar experience to the couple in the Tuscan Sun story. Letizia is Italian, Ruurd is Dutch. Letizia lived in the States for ten years where she obtained her PhD in entymology; Ruurd is also an entymologist. They found their old farmhouse, parts of which date from the 1500's, high in the hills above the town of Assisi, and knew they had to have it. After what must have been a tremendous amount of hard work, they renovated it into a six room bed and breakfast. During the construction, she discovered a plate with a picture of the Madonna, hence the name she chose for the house, Alla Madonna del Piatto. The view and the sense of peace from their home is indescribable. You will just have to come here.
Anyway, I digress. From Cortona, we took the autostrada to Firenze and arrived right at the beginning of a thunderstorm. I couldn't recall much about why I had reserved the hotel I had, so, once again I was a little concerned. Scored again! The Hotel David is in a perfect location, just a 15 minute walk from the main Piazza della Signoria close to all the must-sees. It has free everything: free parking, free wi-fi, free (fabulous) breakfast, free mini-bar (yes, eat and drink the whole frig full), free 10 minute phone call to pretty much anywhere in the world, and free happy hour in their beautiful old lounge complete with a table full of appetizers. Stay here. It's a good one. We haven't had a bad place yet.
So far on this trip, Florence is the only city that we visited when we came to Europe the first time. We loved it then, and we actually made a second visit to it on that trip. We have to admit we were disappointed today. It was crawling with tourists and tour groups and there were lines to see all the major sites which we knew required tickets to be purchased online in advance. We were thankful that we had the opportunity years ago to see the statue of David, the Duomo, the bell tower, etc., because they are definitely sights not to be missed.
It was sort of fun to get caught in a second thunderstorm later in the afternoon, although I don't think Den would agree. We huddled under awnings on the Ponte de Vecchio with hundreds of others, waiting for the rain to stop pelting. Back at the hotel, happy hour and some good conversation with other hotel guests cheered us up and made us temporarily forget about the bus ride home that took three times as long as if we had chosen to walk.
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