Split . . .before we split

August 4, 2010

Split . . . before we split!

Diocletian's Palace. The largest and best preserved Roman ruins in Europe. And we got to see it.

The ferry ride from Slatine to Split was only 17 kunas each (about $3.50) and was a beautiful trip in calm water. The old town area of Split is divided into two parts, Diocletian's Palace dating from Roman times and the adjacent market area that spilled out of the palace during the medieval period. The palace is huge, about 600 feet on each side and was built right on the shoreline in a protected harbour with a fabulous view of the Adriatic, a fitting home for a self-indulgent tyrannical Roman ruler. We were able to tour the inside and see the different chambers. Most interesting to me was the fact that archaeological work is still ongoing. In the ceiling of one main hall were large holes that had been gouged out of the stone floor. These were apparently created by the residents who lived on the upper floor. They dropped all of their waste down the holes into the room below. Over the years the smelly garbage dump solidified and became an archaeologist's dream and a major source of historical artifacts. Some of these deposits are still waiting to be excavated. It boggles the mind to imagine how a structure such as this was built that long ago, all of huge heavy stone. Mind you, 2000 slaves died during its construction. No safety standards or WCB here.

The adjacent Renaissance cathedral and other buildings were just as interesting, as they were built right on the Roman structures. The contrast of old and new was very apparent in Split. A modern bank has incorporated an existing Roman column and floor into its design.

What struck me the most here was this region's troubled history, from the very earliest times. In the 7th century, it was under attack by Slavs, in later centuries by the Turks, the Venetians, the French, and of course, the last decade saw the war with Serbia. Other than the natural scenic beauty of the Dalmatian Coast, it seems an unlikely place over which to fight. The environment is harsh--rocky soil, scrubby vegetation, and seemingly little choice agricultural land, at least in the part we have seen. To our ears, even the language sounds harsh, compared to the smooth French and the dramatic Italian. You have to admire people who have persisted to make this land their home. I have found myself looking at women my age and wondering what horrors they experienced during the war. Is that pile of rubble in their yard the remains of their former house? Did they lose their home? Did they lose a child?