August 16, 2012
8332 kilometres
42 days
21 different beds
9 countries
3 oceans
?? $ . . . but worth every cent, no matter how much it cost us.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Row on row
August 12 and 13, 2010
Throughout this trip we have seen countless vineyards, row on row of neatly planted grapevines making tidy lines across the landscape. Brilliantly green lush vines produce wines that breathe life into the economy and bring a liveliness to the dinner table.
Yesterday we saw more tidy lines, but this time they were row on row of neatly placed white marble crosses, 9,387 in all, each one marking the grave of a soldier who died on the D-Day beaches in 1944. The WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial above Omaha Beach houses headstones of only forty percent of those Americans who gave their lives to free Europe on those beaches; the remainder were buried at home. We also visited the Juno Beach Centre where Canadian forces landed and toured the informative Visitor Centre there. Besides the sheer numbers of soldiers who lost their lives in that assault, most disturbing for me was a photograph of a boatload of young men just about to land on the beach. The fear in their eyes was haunting. I couldn't help thinking that had I been born fifty years earlier, one of those frightened boys could have been my son. I will post my photos on Facebook, but even a video can't capture the sheer size of this cemetery, nor the sense of loss.
Today we are making the first step in our long trek home. We are driving from Dieppe on the west coast of France all the way across the country to Strasbourg in the east, near the border with Germany. We will return our car there tomorrow, then take the train to Zurich where we will fly from on Monday morning. We're ready to be home now and are looking forward to seeing our kids, sleeping in our own bed, and eating lots of fresh vegetables.
Throughout this trip we have seen countless vineyards, row on row of neatly planted grapevines making tidy lines across the landscape. Brilliantly green lush vines produce wines that breathe life into the economy and bring a liveliness to the dinner table.
Yesterday we saw more tidy lines, but this time they were row on row of neatly placed white marble crosses, 9,387 in all, each one marking the grave of a soldier who died on the D-Day beaches in 1944. The WWII Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial above Omaha Beach houses headstones of only forty percent of those Americans who gave their lives to free Europe on those beaches; the remainder were buried at home. We also visited the Juno Beach Centre where Canadian forces landed and toured the informative Visitor Centre there. Besides the sheer numbers of soldiers who lost their lives in that assault, most disturbing for me was a photograph of a boatload of young men just about to land on the beach. The fear in their eyes was haunting. I couldn't help thinking that had I been born fifty years earlier, one of those frightened boys could have been my son. I will post my photos on Facebook, but even a video can't capture the sheer size of this cemetery, nor the sense of loss.
Today we are making the first step in our long trek home. We are driving from Dieppe on the west coast of France all the way across the country to Strasbourg in the east, near the border with Germany. We will return our car there tomorrow, then take the train to Zurich where we will fly from on Monday morning. We're ready to be home now and are looking forward to seeing our kids, sleeping in our own bed, and eating lots of fresh vegetables.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Fabulous French Cuisine . . .and Me Without My Camera!
August 12, 2010
Back in France and STILL love it.
Left Bruges and headed for Ieper (Ypres) to see the war memorial. Oh man, to see ALL those names of young men who died in WWI was very unsettling. The memorial is massive, forming an archway over the road leading to the town's main square. We also visited some of the many war cemeteries, all with white headstones, that are sprinkled throughout Flanders. Some of them had no names, so were simply inscribed," A Soldier of the Great War-- Known unto God".
The drive south to Dieppe was particularly beautiful and peaceful. Farmland rolling down to the sea, small villages, and those lovely white cows, Charlerois, I think they're called and yes, Andrea, they are "ripped".
Our hotel in Dieppe is one of only six right across from the beach. The beach is gorgeous! Smooth cobbles . . . breezy . . . waves . . . it is good to be back near the ocean again. We are right below the 13th Century castle. We wandered through the town, munched on a chocolate baguette, and enjoyed a glass of wine in the sunshine.
We had dinner here at the hotel, and it was our best meal yet. My Norseman Salade, which I thought would be a salad, turned out to be a gigantic plate of seafood, artfully presented on a small mound of greens. I actually ate raw oysters, lox, huge prawns, kippered herring and another type of unidentified fish. Den had a seafood terrine for his appetizer. For our main course, we had a chicken dish with shrimp and peanuts, mounded on top of a ring of toasted bread that was filled with carrots and zucchini. Dessert was a large framboise meringue. And where was my camera?
Back in France and STILL love it.
Left Bruges and headed for Ieper (Ypres) to see the war memorial. Oh man, to see ALL those names of young men who died in WWI was very unsettling. The memorial is massive, forming an archway over the road leading to the town's main square. We also visited some of the many war cemeteries, all with white headstones, that are sprinkled throughout Flanders. Some of them had no names, so were simply inscribed," A Soldier of the Great War-- Known unto God".
The drive south to Dieppe was particularly beautiful and peaceful. Farmland rolling down to the sea, small villages, and those lovely white cows, Charlerois, I think they're called and yes, Andrea, they are "ripped".
Our hotel in Dieppe is one of only six right across from the beach. The beach is gorgeous! Smooth cobbles . . . breezy . . . waves . . . it is good to be back near the ocean again. We are right below the 13th Century castle. We wandered through the town, munched on a chocolate baguette, and enjoyed a glass of wine in the sunshine.
We had dinner here at the hotel, and it was our best meal yet. My Norseman Salade, which I thought would be a salad, turned out to be a gigantic plate of seafood, artfully presented on a small mound of greens. I actually ate raw oysters, lox, huge prawns, kippered herring and another type of unidentified fish. Den had a seafood terrine for his appetizer. For our main course, we had a chicken dish with shrimp and peanuts, mounded on top of a ring of toasted bread that was filled with carrots and zucchini. Dessert was a large framboise meringue. And where was my camera?
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Imbibing in Bruges: beer, fries, waffles and chocolate!
August 10 and 11, 2011
Our two day stay in Bruges has been just the pick-me-up we needed at this point in our holiday. After a 6.5 hour trip from Rothenburg, our GPS led us right to our hotel (well almost) just around a corner from the Markt, the main city square. We didn't know what to expect, having just quickly picked this one through expedia without reading any reviews. It is beautiful! Our room is huge, has a sitting area with wing-backed chairs separated from the bedroom by French doors, looks out onto a common patio, and has wifi that works. The hotel also has a pool and sauna and a beautiful breakfast room complete with a grand piano. Enough about the room. This city is one to fall in love with.
Yesterday we just wandered and explored and tried out different bars in the afternoon and evening. We found a great little place called The Hobbit for dinner. While I had fully planned to resist the chocolate that is so plentiful here, Denis was a very bad influence. We tried seven flavours, voted, and coconut won by a landslide. Today we got serious about seeing this city properly. We let Rick Steves guide us around from the Kindle travel guide we bought for our iPad and saw all the sights.
Wednesday is market day in Bruges and the Markt was full of flowers, fruit, vegetables, cheese, cooked and fresh meats, and pastries early this morning. It seems to be serious business for local women as they select their supplies for the week, and either pack them in their reusable bags or in the baskets on their bikes. It amazes me how they navigate these cobblestone cities in their high heels. Even those riding bikes wear fancy footwear.
We toured the bell tower, Burg Square with all the different styles of architecture, the Basilica of the Holy Blood (now that's quite the story!) http://www.holyblood.com/EN/B.asp City Hall, the Church of Our Lady (with Michelangelo's peaceful statue of Mary with a young Jesus), took a canal ride, and went on a tour of a local brewery. Since there was a tiny hint of fall in the air at times today, I decided it was time to buy a few items of clothing. Who can resist these great fall fashions?
Speaking of resisting, we didn't deprive ourselves in the food department today either. We tried the local gaufres (waffles), frites (fries), and waterzooi (creamy chicken stew), and Denis has been a real trouper handling the tough job of sampling local beers.
Our two day stay in Bruges has been just the pick-me-up we needed at this point in our holiday. After a 6.5 hour trip from Rothenburg, our GPS led us right to our hotel (well almost) just around a corner from the Markt, the main city square. We didn't know what to expect, having just quickly picked this one through expedia without reading any reviews. It is beautiful! Our room is huge, has a sitting area with wing-backed chairs separated from the bedroom by French doors, looks out onto a common patio, and has wifi that works. The hotel also has a pool and sauna and a beautiful breakfast room complete with a grand piano. Enough about the room. This city is one to fall in love with.
Yesterday we just wandered and explored and tried out different bars in the afternoon and evening. We found a great little place called The Hobbit for dinner. While I had fully planned to resist the chocolate that is so plentiful here, Denis was a very bad influence. We tried seven flavours, voted, and coconut won by a landslide. Today we got serious about seeing this city properly. We let Rick Steves guide us around from the Kindle travel guide we bought for our iPad and saw all the sights.
Wednesday is market day in Bruges and the Markt was full of flowers, fruit, vegetables, cheese, cooked and fresh meats, and pastries early this morning. It seems to be serious business for local women as they select their supplies for the week, and either pack them in their reusable bags or in the baskets on their bikes. It amazes me how they navigate these cobblestone cities in their high heels. Even those riding bikes wear fancy footwear.
We toured the bell tower, Burg Square with all the different styles of architecture, the Basilica of the Holy Blood (now that's quite the story!) http://www.holyblood.com/EN/B.asp City Hall, the Church of Our Lady (with Michelangelo's peaceful statue of Mary with a young Jesus), took a canal ride, and went on a tour of a local brewery. Since there was a tiny hint of fall in the air at times today, I decided it was time to buy a few items of clothing. Who can resist these great fall fashions?
Speaking of resisting, we didn't deprive ourselves in the food department today either. We tried the local gaufres (waffles), frites (fries), and waterzooi (creamy chicken stew), and Denis has been a real trouper handling the tough job of sampling local beers.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Fairy Tale Villages and Schneeballen
August 9, 2010
Fairy Tale Villages and Schneeballen
The Romantic Road, das Romantische Strasse, in Bavaria is a definite must-see. Thanks, Andrea and Trevor, for suggesting that we include it on this trip. This route runs between Fussen in the south and Wurzberg in the north and connects a series of tiny medieval villages, farms and rolling hills. In the 1950's, the local towns cooperated to create this scenic route for tourists. The villages at which we stopped were walled cities, complete with well-preserved ramparts. We were immersed in the Middle Ages today.
Our first stop was Nordlingen, a town built on the site of a meteorite crater that hit the earth 15 million years ago. The circular wall of the city was constructed on the crater's edge making it perfectly round. We walked along the covered wall and poked around the town, exploring some of the shops in colourful, picturesque high gabled buildings. We bought a couple of Schneeballen, but wondered what all the fuss was about. The ones we had were just strips of pie pastry rolled into a ball, baked, and dusted with sugar.
Next stop: Dinkelsbuhl. Cuter than cute. Think Chemainus, multiply it by at least 1000 in terms of qualilty, then add hundreds of years of fascinating history, a moat, a wall, towers, cobblestones and window boxes and you have Dinkelsbuhl.
On to our destination for the night--Rothenburg ob der Tauber. It is touted as the best of the best on the Romantic Road, but we were a little disappointed. The town's historical value is outshone by the tourist shops which dominate the main streets. Beer steins, cuckoo clocks, Hummel figurines and Christmas decorations, all at inflated prices crowd every shop window.
We followed Rick Steves' advice to park outside the city wall and we dragged our luggage over the cobblestones several blocks to our hotel, (imagine the sound of that) only to find that the hotel had a secure parking garage, for a price, of course. It is a lovely old medieval building, our room is large, and beautifully decorated and has a balcony overlooking a small garden and a jumble of tiled rooftops.
As I took my estimated one hundred and seventy second picture of a narrow cobblestoned street today with much less enthusiasm than the first one hundred, I realized that we are just tired. Hips ache, legs are sore and feet hurt. We have driven over 6000 km and it feels like we have walked just as far, mostly uphill or on stairs. If Rothenburg had been one of our first sights, I suspect we would have been enthralled.
At dinner we saved room for the fancier Schneeballen we had seen, bought the chocolate and marzipan one that Andrea had recommended, but still couldn't see the attraction. We are off across the country to Bruges in Belgium tomorrow. Chocolate, here we come!
Fairy Tale Villages and Schneeballen
The Romantic Road, das Romantische Strasse, in Bavaria is a definite must-see. Thanks, Andrea and Trevor, for suggesting that we include it on this trip. This route runs between Fussen in the south and Wurzberg in the north and connects a series of tiny medieval villages, farms and rolling hills. In the 1950's, the local towns cooperated to create this scenic route for tourists. The villages at which we stopped were walled cities, complete with well-preserved ramparts. We were immersed in the Middle Ages today.
Our first stop was Nordlingen, a town built on the site of a meteorite crater that hit the earth 15 million years ago. The circular wall of the city was constructed on the crater's edge making it perfectly round. We walked along the covered wall and poked around the town, exploring some of the shops in colourful, picturesque high gabled buildings. We bought a couple of Schneeballen, but wondered what all the fuss was about. The ones we had were just strips of pie pastry rolled into a ball, baked, and dusted with sugar.
Next stop: Dinkelsbuhl. Cuter than cute. Think Chemainus, multiply it by at least 1000 in terms of qualilty, then add hundreds of years of fascinating history, a moat, a wall, towers, cobblestones and window boxes and you have Dinkelsbuhl.
On to our destination for the night--Rothenburg ob der Tauber. It is touted as the best of the best on the Romantic Road, but we were a little disappointed. The town's historical value is outshone by the tourist shops which dominate the main streets. Beer steins, cuckoo clocks, Hummel figurines and Christmas decorations, all at inflated prices crowd every shop window.
We followed Rick Steves' advice to park outside the city wall and we dragged our luggage over the cobblestones several blocks to our hotel, (imagine the sound of that) only to find that the hotel had a secure parking garage, for a price, of course. It is a lovely old medieval building, our room is large, and beautifully decorated and has a balcony overlooking a small garden and a jumble of tiled rooftops.
As I took my estimated one hundred and seventy second picture of a narrow cobblestoned street today with much less enthusiasm than the first one hundred, I realized that we are just tired. Hips ache, legs are sore and feet hurt. We have driven over 6000 km and it feels like we have walked just as far, mostly uphill or on stairs. If Rothenburg had been one of our first sights, I suspect we would have been enthralled.
At dinner we saved room for the fancier Schneeballen we had seen, bought the chocolate and marzipan one that Andrea had recommended, but still couldn't see the attraction. We are off across the country to Bruges in Belgium tomorrow. Chocolate, here we come!
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Thunderstorms, traffic waits, a castle and a Brauhaus!
August 8, 2010
Wow!
So much happened today it is already hard to remember everything.
Left Bolzano after a continental breakfast in the hotel during which we booked two nights in a hotel on the beach in Dieppe.
Went through the Brenner Pass. Absolutely spectacular scenery. Looming mountains, terraced hillsides, tiny villages, geranium flower boxes. Beautiful.
Crossed the border into Austria and headed towards Innsbruck. Got caught in a traffic hold up for half an hour. Sang along with sappy country music on the iPod and actually enjoyed it.
Stopped and had coffee and shared a muffin. Should have had the apple strudel. When in Rome . . . you know.
Reached Fussen just over the border into Germany. Since we were trying to navigate without a map today (foolish) we parked in the wrong P 4 parking lot, and ended up having the most expensive bathroom break--parking lot fee plus a coffee so we could use the restaurant's bathroom.
Corrected ourselves and headed for the Neuschwanstein castle. Another expensive mistake. Bought the parking ticket for 4.5 euros, walked through the pouring rain, had a look at the length of the line for the bus to take us up to the castle and agreed that (a) this would not be a life-changing experience, and (b) photos from the parking lot would be just fine.
Headed up the Romantic Road through yet more incredible scenery. I "omg"ed it for most of the way. Rolling green hills, happy cows, tidy farm houses bedecked with
geraniums, even their woodpiles were tidy. Loved it.
Arrived in Munich and our (at the moment) beloved GPS led us straight to our hotel. We've discovered the secret to getting a great hotel room: pay more! In a Sheraton tonight. So glad to have a super comfortable bed even though the hotel lacks the personality of the great B&B's we have had.
Proud of ourselves tonight. Our goal for Munich was to revisit Marienplatz and to eat in a Brauhaus. This required taking the subway. We actually figured it out and got off at the right spot. Pretty good for two people who don't speak German. As soon as we came up the stairs out of the subway, we remembered why we loved Munich the first time we were here. It is such an exciting city and such a well-orchestrated mix of the old and the new. Just as we were about to watch the glockenspiel in Marienplatz, the main square, the skies let loose and it started pouring. We ran to a covered area and tried to wait it out. We had been looking for a particular brauhaus (without a map . . . ) but found another one. Loved it! A true Bavarian experience. It was a typical old style German beer house, complete with a boar's head, antlers, rifles, beer kegs, and steins. We broke with our non-meat habits and ordered beer and weiner schnitzel. When in Rome . . .
A perfect end to the day was walking back through the square under a rainbow (no kidding) and stopping to listen to a chamber music group playing Pachabel's Canon.
Wow!
Wow!
So much happened today it is already hard to remember everything.
Left Bolzano after a continental breakfast in the hotel during which we booked two nights in a hotel on the beach in Dieppe.
Went through the Brenner Pass. Absolutely spectacular scenery. Looming mountains, terraced hillsides, tiny villages, geranium flower boxes. Beautiful.
Crossed the border into Austria and headed towards Innsbruck. Got caught in a traffic hold up for half an hour. Sang along with sappy country music on the iPod and actually enjoyed it.
Stopped and had coffee and shared a muffin. Should have had the apple strudel. When in Rome . . . you know.
Reached Fussen just over the border into Germany. Since we were trying to navigate without a map today (foolish) we parked in the wrong P 4 parking lot, and ended up having the most expensive bathroom break--parking lot fee plus a coffee so we could use the restaurant's bathroom.
Corrected ourselves and headed for the Neuschwanstein castle. Another expensive mistake. Bought the parking ticket for 4.5 euros, walked through the pouring rain, had a look at the length of the line for the bus to take us up to the castle and agreed that (a) this would not be a life-changing experience, and (b) photos from the parking lot would be just fine.
Headed up the Romantic Road through yet more incredible scenery. I "omg"ed it for most of the way. Rolling green hills, happy cows, tidy farm houses bedecked with
geraniums, even their woodpiles were tidy. Loved it.
Arrived in Munich and our (at the moment) beloved GPS led us straight to our hotel. We've discovered the secret to getting a great hotel room: pay more! In a Sheraton tonight. So glad to have a super comfortable bed even though the hotel lacks the personality of the great B&B's we have had.
Proud of ourselves tonight. Our goal for Munich was to revisit Marienplatz and to eat in a Brauhaus. This required taking the subway. We actually figured it out and got off at the right spot. Pretty good for two people who don't speak German. As soon as we came up the stairs out of the subway, we remembered why we loved Munich the first time we were here. It is such an exciting city and such a well-orchestrated mix of the old and the new. Just as we were about to watch the glockenspiel in Marienplatz, the main square, the skies let loose and it started pouring. We ran to a covered area and tried to wait it out. We had been looking for a particular brauhaus (without a map . . . ) but found another one. Loved it! A true Bavarian experience. It was a typical old style German beer house, complete with a boar's head, antlers, rifles, beer kegs, and steins. We broke with our non-meat habits and ordered beer and weiner schnitzel. When in Rome . . .
A perfect end to the day was walking back through the square under a rainbow (no kidding) and stopping to listen to a chamber music group playing Pachabel's Canon.
Wow!
Get a bigger cup
August 7, 2010
Today we had what we call "a travel moment", one of those experiences that you want to last forever and that you know you will never forget.
We drove north from here in Bolzano to a tiny town called Castelrotto, poked around a bit, decided we weren't dressed warmly enough and went back to change. It's chilly being up this high in the mountains.
Being up on the Suisi Alm, the largest alpine meadow in Europe was an amazing experience. We took a cable car up the mountain from Suisi, then another one further up into the meadow. Sitting there looking over the meadows and the alpine huts, hearing the tinkling cow bells, and breathing in the fresh mountain air was simply indescribable. There are not enough adjectives in the English language. Even photos cannot capture the beauty of this spot. You will just have to come here. Soon. Den and I agree that this is a day that will be etched in our memories forever.
Earlier on this trip we decided our philosophy was to "Fill up the life we have." We have expanded on that. Now our goal is simply to "get a bigger cup" :)
Today we had what we call "a travel moment", one of those experiences that you want to last forever and that you know you will never forget.
We drove north from here in Bolzano to a tiny town called Castelrotto, poked around a bit, decided we weren't dressed warmly enough and went back to change. It's chilly being up this high in the mountains.
Being up on the Suisi Alm, the largest alpine meadow in Europe was an amazing experience. We took a cable car up the mountain from Suisi, then another one further up into the meadow. Sitting there looking over the meadows and the alpine huts, hearing the tinkling cow bells, and breathing in the fresh mountain air was simply indescribable. There are not enough adjectives in the English language. Even photos cannot capture the beauty of this spot. You will just have to come here. Soon. Den and I agree that this is a day that will be etched in our memories forever.
Earlier on this trip we decided our philosophy was to "Fill up the life we have." We have expanded on that. Now our goal is simply to "get a bigger cup" :)
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Otzi, the Ice Man. We're in Tyrol!
August 6, 2010
Today we drove from Trieste, past Venice and Verona, then straight north to Bolzano. The landscape changed almost immediately as we entered a mountain pass through the Dolomite region. This area is stunningly beautiful--tiny villages nestled into the mountains, green velvet meadows, tidy terraced vineyards--and we began to see the Tyrol influence in Bavarian style houses with geranium flower boxes.
We had a heck of a time trying to find our hotel. The GPS doesn't always recognize that some streets are one-way and that others are pedestrian-only . . . and there are a lot of both in Bolzano! We were totally frustrated trying to find a place to park, and finally left the car in a handicapped zone outside a church. We found our hotel on foot, followed the hotelier's directions for where to park, and settled in. This is yet another great hotel. We have a big room, complete with a sitting area, a huge bathroom, and we are one of two rooms on the top floor. We're calling it the penthouse.
We had a fascinating afternoon in the Ice Man Archaeological Museum. It is the home of Otzi, a 5000 year old man whose frozen and preserved body was found in a nearby mountain area by hikers in 1991. Even his clothes were well preserved. Scientists have been able to determine his age, his health conditions (he had arthritis), his recent injury (he had been shot with an arrowhead), and even his last meal (by examining the contents of his stomach). The museum had fabulous displays of local Copper, Bronze, Iron Age, and Roman artifacts.
Today we drove from Trieste, past Venice and Verona, then straight north to Bolzano. The landscape changed almost immediately as we entered a mountain pass through the Dolomite region. This area is stunningly beautiful--tiny villages nestled into the mountains, green velvet meadows, tidy terraced vineyards--and we began to see the Tyrol influence in Bavarian style houses with geranium flower boxes.
We had a heck of a time trying to find our hotel. The GPS doesn't always recognize that some streets are one-way and that others are pedestrian-only . . . and there are a lot of both in Bolzano! We were totally frustrated trying to find a place to park, and finally left the car in a handicapped zone outside a church. We found our hotel on foot, followed the hotelier's directions for where to park, and settled in. This is yet another great hotel. We have a big room, complete with a sitting area, a huge bathroom, and we are one of two rooms on the top floor. We're calling it the penthouse.
We had a fascinating afternoon in the Ice Man Archaeological Museum. It is the home of Otzi, a 5000 year old man whose frozen and preserved body was found in a nearby mountain area by hikers in 1991. Even his clothes were well preserved. Scientists have been able to determine his age, his health conditions (he had arthritis), his recent injury (he had been shot with an arrowhead), and even his last meal (by examining the contents of his stomach). The museum had fabulous displays of local Copper, Bronze, Iron Age, and Roman artifacts.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Bella Italia---it's good to be back
August 5, 2010
Bella Italia -- It's Good to be Back!
The Italians know how to do things right.
Love our hotel. Cute. Comfy. Clean. Breakfast included.
Downtown for an aperitif. An order of a beer and a glass of wine comes on a silver tray with olives, cocktail sandwiches, nuts, and two kinds of chips. No extra charge. Also no extra charge for the decor--ornate ceilings and rich wood detail. Lace cloth. Good conversation. We agree that we don't tire of talking to each other.
Walk in the rain past Renaissance architecture and a Roman amphitheatre. Leather boots in store windows. Italian leather. Fall fashions. Nubby sweaters and narrow pants. Italian fashions. Bellissimo.
Doesn't even matter that it's still raining. Bella Italia. Good to be back.
Bella Italia -- It's Good to be Back!
The Italians know how to do things right.
Love our hotel. Cute. Comfy. Clean. Breakfast included.
Downtown for an aperitif. An order of a beer and a glass of wine comes on a silver tray with olives, cocktail sandwiches, nuts, and two kinds of chips. No extra charge. Also no extra charge for the decor--ornate ceilings and rich wood detail. Lace cloth. Good conversation. We agree that we don't tire of talking to each other.
Walk in the rain past Renaissance architecture and a Roman amphitheatre. Leather boots in store windows. Italian leather. Fall fashions. Nubby sweaters and narrow pants. Italian fashions. Bellissimo.
Doesn't even matter that it's still raining. Bella Italia. Good to be back.
Split . . .before we split
August 4, 2010
Split . . . before we split!
Diocletian's Palace. The largest and best preserved Roman ruins in Europe. And we got to see it.
The ferry ride from Slatine to Split was only 17 kunas each (about $3.50) and was a beautiful trip in calm water. The old town area of Split is divided into two parts, Diocletian's Palace dating from Roman times and the adjacent market area that spilled out of the palace during the medieval period. The palace is huge, about 600 feet on each side and was built right on the shoreline in a protected harbour with a fabulous view of the Adriatic, a fitting home for a self-indulgent tyrannical Roman ruler. We were able to tour the inside and see the different chambers. Most interesting to me was the fact that archaeological work is still ongoing. In the ceiling of one main hall were large holes that had been gouged out of the stone floor. These were apparently created by the residents who lived on the upper floor. They dropped all of their waste down the holes into the room below. Over the years the smelly garbage dump solidified and became an archaeologist's dream and a major source of historical artifacts. Some of these deposits are still waiting to be excavated. It boggles the mind to imagine how a structure such as this was built that long ago, all of huge heavy stone. Mind you, 2000 slaves died during its construction. No safety standards or WCB here.
The adjacent Renaissance cathedral and other buildings were just as interesting, as they were built right on the Roman structures. The contrast of old and new was very apparent in Split. A modern bank has incorporated an existing Roman column and floor into its design.
What struck me the most here was this region's troubled history, from the very earliest times. In the 7th century, it was under attack by Slavs, in later centuries by the Turks, the Venetians, the French, and of course, the last decade saw the war with Serbia. Other than the natural scenic beauty of the Dalmatian Coast, it seems an unlikely place over which to fight. The environment is harsh--rocky soil, scrubby vegetation, and seemingly little choice agricultural land, at least in the part we have seen. To our ears, even the language sounds harsh, compared to the smooth French and the dramatic Italian. You have to admire people who have persisted to make this land their home. I have found myself looking at women my age and wondering what horrors they experienced during the war. Is that pile of rubble in their yard the remains of their former house? Did they lose their home? Did they lose a child?
Split . . . before we split!
Diocletian's Palace. The largest and best preserved Roman ruins in Europe. And we got to see it.
The ferry ride from Slatine to Split was only 17 kunas each (about $3.50) and was a beautiful trip in calm water. The old town area of Split is divided into two parts, Diocletian's Palace dating from Roman times and the adjacent market area that spilled out of the palace during the medieval period. The palace is huge, about 600 feet on each side and was built right on the shoreline in a protected harbour with a fabulous view of the Adriatic, a fitting home for a self-indulgent tyrannical Roman ruler. We were able to tour the inside and see the different chambers. Most interesting to me was the fact that archaeological work is still ongoing. In the ceiling of one main hall were large holes that had been gouged out of the stone floor. These were apparently created by the residents who lived on the upper floor. They dropped all of their waste down the holes into the room below. Over the years the smelly garbage dump solidified and became an archaeologist's dream and a major source of historical artifacts. Some of these deposits are still waiting to be excavated. It boggles the mind to imagine how a structure such as this was built that long ago, all of huge heavy stone. Mind you, 2000 slaves died during its construction. No safety standards or WCB here.
The adjacent Renaissance cathedral and other buildings were just as interesting, as they were built right on the Roman structures. The contrast of old and new was very apparent in Split. A modern bank has incorporated an existing Roman column and floor into its design.
What struck me the most here was this region's troubled history, from the very earliest times. In the 7th century, it was under attack by Slavs, in later centuries by the Turks, the Venetians, the French, and of course, the last decade saw the war with Serbia. Other than the natural scenic beauty of the Dalmatian Coast, it seems an unlikely place over which to fight. The environment is harsh--rocky soil, scrubby vegetation, and seemingly little choice agricultural land, at least in the part we have seen. To our ears, even the language sounds harsh, compared to the smooth French and the dramatic Italian. You have to admire people who have persisted to make this land their home. I have found myself looking at women my age and wondering what horrors they experienced during the war. Is that pile of rubble in their yard the remains of their former house? Did they lose their home? Did they lose a child?
Krka National Park and Travel Planning
August 3, 2010
Up early to beat the traffic into Togir (we have been told it is jammed from 7:30 to 11:00 a.m.) We took the coast road north through a series of small resort villages to Sibenik. The Dalmatian Coast has spectacular scenery: white houses with red roofs set against the backdrop of the blue Adriatic. Krka National Park was about an hour away. It encompasses the Krka River and large waterfalls formed from travertine. We hiked along the boardwalk trail but didn't swim in the falls. Much too slimey for me.
The area in which we are staying is popular with young Croatian or British families. It is just not for us. We are spoiled, I guess. The beaches here are all sharp rocks, so most people use air mattresses or floating toys to enjoy the water. Every square meter of the beach is packed with people sun-tanning (and smoking). The strip of beach is very narrow, so in many spots it seems as if people are just lying in the dirt at the edge of the walkway. Beach bars line the strip wherever there is room. It is crowded, noisy, busy, and hot. Most accommodation is in apartments which are in 6 to 8 suite apartment buildings jammed one on top of another on the hillsides leading to the sea. We have not been able to figure out any sort of logical pattern for the road system in this area. It seems more like a labyrinth and the roads are so narrow and windy that it is impossible to tell the difference between a roadway and a driveway. Okrug Gornji, the community here, is on the island of Ciovo which is connected to Trogir by a bridge. Trogir is about 30 km from Split. I should have looked into this in more depth before I booked it as it is quite a hassle to leave the area and much too far from Dubrovnik to make a day trip.
So . . . we made a mutual decision to leave three days early despite the fact that we have already paid for those nights. We found an internet shop in Trogir and started booking spots for the remainder of our vacation. We will take a boat to Split tomorrow, explore the town and then head back north on Thursday.
Up early to beat the traffic into Togir (we have been told it is jammed from 7:30 to 11:00 a.m.) We took the coast road north through a series of small resort villages to Sibenik. The Dalmatian Coast has spectacular scenery: white houses with red roofs set against the backdrop of the blue Adriatic. Krka National Park was about an hour away. It encompasses the Krka River and large waterfalls formed from travertine. We hiked along the boardwalk trail but didn't swim in the falls. Much too slimey for me.
The area in which we are staying is popular with young Croatian or British families. It is just not for us. We are spoiled, I guess. The beaches here are all sharp rocks, so most people use air mattresses or floating toys to enjoy the water. Every square meter of the beach is packed with people sun-tanning (and smoking). The strip of beach is very narrow, so in many spots it seems as if people are just lying in the dirt at the edge of the walkway. Beach bars line the strip wherever there is room. It is crowded, noisy, busy, and hot. Most accommodation is in apartments which are in 6 to 8 suite apartment buildings jammed one on top of another on the hillsides leading to the sea. We have not been able to figure out any sort of logical pattern for the road system in this area. It seems more like a labyrinth and the roads are so narrow and windy that it is impossible to tell the difference between a roadway and a driveway. Okrug Gornji, the community here, is on the island of Ciovo which is connected to Trogir by a bridge. Trogir is about 30 km from Split. I should have looked into this in more depth before I booked it as it is quite a hassle to leave the area and much too far from Dubrovnik to make a day trip.
So . . . we made a mutual decision to leave three days early despite the fact that we have already paid for those nights. We found an internet shop in Trogir and started booking spots for the remainder of our vacation. We will take a boat to Split tomorrow, explore the town and then head back north on Thursday.
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Okrug Gornji here we are!
August 2, 2010
Well, we are here and while it is not what we had expected, we are going to make the most of our time here. Today we decided to just explore the nearby town of Trogir. We walked along the rocky beach from our apartment here in Okrug Gornji, stepping over sun-bathers, to the ferry dock and took a boat for the 15 minute trip to Trogir. It is a cute little town with a Roman fortress, lots of narrow alleys to explore, restaurants galore, and a wide palm-tree lined promenade all along the shoreline. Apparently this is a destination for celebrities who arrive on their large yachts. We had lunch in a little alley cafe and then headed back.
This afternoon we found out how to take a ferry to Split and drove across the island to find the dock. Driving across the island was very stressful for me and I wasn't even the driver! Narrow roads, no shoulders, motorcycles weaving in and out, cars squeezing by each other and pedestrians all over the road made me crazy. I thought after 36 years of marriage that I knew everything there was to know about Denis, but I learned today that he can be perfectly calm and rational in crazy situations. We plan to make the trip there again on Wednesday and spend the day in Split.
While we are not sure if this area was bombed during the civil war in the early 1990's, there certainly seems to be evidence of it. Most buildings seem to have new red tile roofs. There are lots of vacant lots with old foundations on them, and piles of rubble, now overgrown with weeds. Many of the local roads are a patchwork of rough concrete and asphalt--a real mess. What these people endured is unimaginable, especially for me when I think of my peaceful, tidy neighbourhood.
Tomorrow we are heading to Krk National Park where we can swim in the waterfalls. Should be fun.
Highlight of the day? Hearing Laura's voice on the phone. :)
Well, we are here and while it is not what we had expected, we are going to make the most of our time here. Today we decided to just explore the nearby town of Trogir. We walked along the rocky beach from our apartment here in Okrug Gornji, stepping over sun-bathers, to the ferry dock and took a boat for the 15 minute trip to Trogir. It is a cute little town with a Roman fortress, lots of narrow alleys to explore, restaurants galore, and a wide palm-tree lined promenade all along the shoreline. Apparently this is a destination for celebrities who arrive on their large yachts. We had lunch in a little alley cafe and then headed back.
This afternoon we found out how to take a ferry to Split and drove across the island to find the dock. Driving across the island was very stressful for me and I wasn't even the driver! Narrow roads, no shoulders, motorcycles weaving in and out, cars squeezing by each other and pedestrians all over the road made me crazy. I thought after 36 years of marriage that I knew everything there was to know about Denis, but I learned today that he can be perfectly calm and rational in crazy situations. We plan to make the trip there again on Wednesday and spend the day in Split.
While we are not sure if this area was bombed during the civil war in the early 1990's, there certainly seems to be evidence of it. Most buildings seem to have new red tile roofs. There are lots of vacant lots with old foundations on them, and piles of rubble, now overgrown with weeds. Many of the local roads are a patchwork of rough concrete and asphalt--a real mess. What these people endured is unimaginable, especially for me when I think of my peaceful, tidy neighbourhood.
Tomorrow we are heading to Krk National Park where we can swim in the waterfalls. Should be fun.
Highlight of the day? Hearing Laura's voice on the phone. :)
Culturre Shock in Croatia
August 1, 2010
Culture Shock in Croatia
We spent a long day driving on the autostrada, all the way from Venice to Trogir, near Split, here in Croatia. Coming through Slovenia on the way was particularly scenic--green hillsides and small meadows and red-roofed villages. Most of the trip through central Croatia was quite boring as we were on the motorway, and the landscape is fairly uniform with dry rocky hills and lots of tunnels.
Arriving in Trogir and making our way to the apartment we have rented for a week in Okrug Gornji, a small resort town on the island of Ciovo, was quite an experience. To say the roads in this area are narrow is an understatement. We often had to pull over to make way for oncoming traffic. This town is a jumble of roads which seem like driveways amidst hundreds of apartment blocks. We finally found the address of the woman who manages this apartment (I rented it from Paul Somebody in Britain), and she took us to the apartment. While it is, I suppose, exactly as was described on the website, it is not as lovely as I had expected. The beach is only 50 metres away, true, but it is a narrow rocky bit of shoreline jam packed with tourists and holidayers who love to smoke and get their bodies very brown.
We found a market, bought some groceries and cooked our dinner before heading to bed (a squeaky one). Tomorrow will be better. Feeling a little homesick as we have been away for a month now.
Culture Shock in Croatia
We spent a long day driving on the autostrada, all the way from Venice to Trogir, near Split, here in Croatia. Coming through Slovenia on the way was particularly scenic--green hillsides and small meadows and red-roofed villages. Most of the trip through central Croatia was quite boring as we were on the motorway, and the landscape is fairly uniform with dry rocky hills and lots of tunnels.
Arriving in Trogir and making our way to the apartment we have rented for a week in Okrug Gornji, a small resort town on the island of Ciovo, was quite an experience. To say the roads in this area are narrow is an understatement. We often had to pull over to make way for oncoming traffic. This town is a jumble of roads which seem like driveways amidst hundreds of apartment blocks. We finally found the address of the woman who manages this apartment (I rented it from Paul Somebody in Britain), and she took us to the apartment. While it is, I suppose, exactly as was described on the website, it is not as lovely as I had expected. The beach is only 50 metres away, true, but it is a narrow rocky bit of shoreline jam packed with tourists and holidayers who love to smoke and get their bodies very brown.
We found a market, bought some groceries and cooked our dinner before heading to bed (a squeaky one). Tomorrow will be better. Feeling a little homesick as we have been away for a month now.
Day Two in Venice and a phone call home
July 31, 2010
Day 2 in Venice and a phone call home.
Well, the Villa Stucky redeemed itself. Breakfast was excellent. The room itself was enough, never mind the food. The breakfast room is large with several small round tables, all with pink floor length tablecloths, delicate Murano glass chandeliers and red draperies. We were bad and had dessert for breakfast as these Italians seem to do: apple torte, a Nutella croissant, fruit salad, yogurt, and a mocacchino.
We're old pro's at the train system now :) We arrived in Venice early and decided to just wander our way down the canal instead of taking the vaporetto today. I found the leather purse I had coveted yesterday in a little shop today and it was 3 euros cheaper, so I celebrated by buying a gorgeous scarf too. We spent the morning just poking around, weaving in and out of those narrow little alleys, up and over canals. We had a lousy lunch that I believe Venice is famous for, and wandered some more.
We headed back to the hotel later in the afternoon to see if we could get any internet access, but had no luck. I'm doubtful that we will have wi-fi at our apartment in Croatia so I called and booked two places, one in the Dolomites and one in Rothenburg for the first week in August. I then realized that I really needed internet access and I really needed my first class personal travel agent, so I phoned Andrea for help. It was so good to hear Trevor's voice, to hear Lexi say "hi Grandma" and to talk to Andrea for awhile. Sure miss everyone at home . . .
Had a great dinner in a trattoria just down the street. Cheaper than our lousy lunch.
We're ready to move on from Italy now and are excited about being in Croatia tomorrow. Another new adventure!
Day 2 in Venice and a phone call home.
Well, the Villa Stucky redeemed itself. Breakfast was excellent. The room itself was enough, never mind the food. The breakfast room is large with several small round tables, all with pink floor length tablecloths, delicate Murano glass chandeliers and red draperies. We were bad and had dessert for breakfast as these Italians seem to do: apple torte, a Nutella croissant, fruit salad, yogurt, and a mocacchino.
We're old pro's at the train system now :) We arrived in Venice early and decided to just wander our way down the canal instead of taking the vaporetto today. I found the leather purse I had coveted yesterday in a little shop today and it was 3 euros cheaper, so I celebrated by buying a gorgeous scarf too. We spent the morning just poking around, weaving in and out of those narrow little alleys, up and over canals. We had a lousy lunch that I believe Venice is famous for, and wandered some more.
We headed back to the hotel later in the afternoon to see if we could get any internet access, but had no luck. I'm doubtful that we will have wi-fi at our apartment in Croatia so I called and booked two places, one in the Dolomites and one in Rothenburg for the first week in August. I then realized that I really needed internet access and I really needed my first class personal travel agent, so I phoned Andrea for help. It was so good to hear Trevor's voice, to hear Lexi say "hi Grandma" and to talk to Andrea for awhile. Sure miss everyone at home . . .
Had a great dinner in a trattoria just down the street. Cheaper than our lousy lunch.
We're ready to move on from Italy now and are excited about being in Croatia tomorrow. Another new adventure!
A Villa in Venice!
July 30, 2010
A Villa in Venice
We arrived in Venice early this afternoon and after a bit of confusion on the part of our usually beloved GPS, found our hotel. I was, as usual, apprehensive about what this one would be like, but particularly so because Denis had booked it! Aaargh! Out of my control! And with a name like Villa Stucky it sounded like a dump to me.
We broke out laughing once we finally found it, as it was certainly not what we were expecting. It is a stately and very ornate 300 year old villa, built by some Countess, that has been converted to a hotel. The furnishings are over-the-top elegant: rich brocade chairs and settees, velvet drapes, Murano glass chandeliers everywhere you look, inlaid floors, red carpets in the hallways, red velvet handrail, frescoed ceilings, and so on. It is almost like a museum as there are old photographs and curio cabinets displaying silver pieces and other objects that obviously belonged to the family. Outside the opulence continues: a white stone fountain and gazebo, statues, and lovely grounds. Someone commented today that it is almost like Versailles! Now we remember why he booked it--it is a 5 minute walk to the train station and a 20 minute train ride to the vaporetto station in Venice. No driving or parking to worry about in a pedestrian-only city.
We spent the afternoon in Venice, remembering parts of it from our first trip here. It really is a unique city that everyone should have the chance to experience. We took the vaporetto down the entire length of the Grand Canal and spent the rest of our time wandering. We found an odd little bar where we had a light dinner. Odd is an understatement. The entire ceiling was decorated with bras. That's right. Bras. Hundreds of them. All hanging neatly in rows from the ceiling. I guess every business needs a gimmick. Anyway, the ravioli with gorgonzola was delish.
Once we returned to our hotel, our initial favorable impression faded somewhat. No wi-fi. Internet access by cable only. Who still does that? We were offered internet service for a price, 5 euros for 1 hour and so on, but the girl at the desk admitted that the service was unreliable. Great. Back in the room, we found that we had one towel, one cup, and pillows so flat they must have belonged to Countess What's-her-name 300 years ago. Breakfast better be more than a bun with jam or the Villa Stucky will simply not make the Nessman's top ten list. And if that town clock chimes all night long it definitely won't.
Heading back into Venice to explore those little back alleys and canals tomorrow.
A Villa in Venice
We arrived in Venice early this afternoon and after a bit of confusion on the part of our usually beloved GPS, found our hotel. I was, as usual, apprehensive about what this one would be like, but particularly so because Denis had booked it! Aaargh! Out of my control! And with a name like Villa Stucky it sounded like a dump to me.
We broke out laughing once we finally found it, as it was certainly not what we were expecting. It is a stately and very ornate 300 year old villa, built by some Countess, that has been converted to a hotel. The furnishings are over-the-top elegant: rich brocade chairs and settees, velvet drapes, Murano glass chandeliers everywhere you look, inlaid floors, red carpets in the hallways, red velvet handrail, frescoed ceilings, and so on. It is almost like a museum as there are old photographs and curio cabinets displaying silver pieces and other objects that obviously belonged to the family. Outside the opulence continues: a white stone fountain and gazebo, statues, and lovely grounds. Someone commented today that it is almost like Versailles! Now we remember why he booked it--it is a 5 minute walk to the train station and a 20 minute train ride to the vaporetto station in Venice. No driving or parking to worry about in a pedestrian-only city.
We spent the afternoon in Venice, remembering parts of it from our first trip here. It really is a unique city that everyone should have the chance to experience. We took the vaporetto down the entire length of the Grand Canal and spent the rest of our time wandering. We found an odd little bar where we had a light dinner. Odd is an understatement. The entire ceiling was decorated with bras. That's right. Bras. Hundreds of them. All hanging neatly in rows from the ceiling. I guess every business needs a gimmick. Anyway, the ravioli with gorgonzola was delish.
Once we returned to our hotel, our initial favorable impression faded somewhat. No wi-fi. Internet access by cable only. Who still does that? We were offered internet service for a price, 5 euros for 1 hour and so on, but the girl at the desk admitted that the service was unreliable. Great. Back in the room, we found that we had one towel, one cup, and pillows so flat they must have belonged to Countess What's-her-name 300 years ago. Breakfast better be more than a bun with jam or the Villa Stucky will simply not make the Nessman's top ten list. And if that town clock chimes all night long it definitely won't.
Heading back into Venice to explore those little back alleys and canals tomorrow.
Florence in the rain
July 29, 2010
As much as we loved every moment in Assisi staying at Alla Madonna del Piatto www.incampagna.com we were only a little sad to leave because each day over here holds new adventures and surprises. We headed for Firenze (Florence) and decided to stop in Cortona on the way. Having read and watched the movie Under the Tuscan Sun which is set in Cortona, we just had to stop and see if we recognized any of the scenery (we did) or if we could actually find the house, Bramisole (we did not). Apparently the author, Frances Mayes still lives here for part of each year in the villa she renovated with her husband and they are respected members of the community. Cortona is a town to which we would return.
Come to think of it, Letizia and her husband, Ruurd, our hosts at the B&B in Assisi, had a similar experience to the couple in the Tuscan Sun story. Letizia is Italian, Ruurd is Dutch. Letizia lived in the States for ten years where she obtained her PhD in entymology; Ruurd is also an entymologist. They found their old farmhouse, parts of which date from the 1500's, high in the hills above the town of Assisi, and knew they had to have it. After what must have been a tremendous amount of hard work, they renovated it into a six room bed and breakfast. During the construction, she discovered a plate with a picture of the Madonna, hence the name she chose for the house, Alla Madonna del Piatto. The view and the sense of peace from their home is indescribable. You will just have to come here.
Anyway, I digress. From Cortona, we took the autostrada to Firenze and arrived right at the beginning of a thunderstorm. I couldn't recall much about why I had reserved the hotel I had, so, once again I was a little concerned. Scored again! The Hotel David is in a perfect location, just a 15 minute walk from the main Piazza della Signoria close to all the must-sees. It has free everything: free parking, free wi-fi, free (fabulous) breakfast, free mini-bar (yes, eat and drink the whole frig full), free 10 minute phone call to pretty much anywhere in the world, and free happy hour in their beautiful old lounge complete with a table full of appetizers. Stay here. It's a good one. We haven't had a bad place yet.
So far on this trip, Florence is the only city that we visited when we came to Europe the first time. We loved it then, and we actually made a second visit to it on that trip. We have to admit we were disappointed today. It was crawling with tourists and tour groups and there were lines to see all the major sites which we knew required tickets to be purchased online in advance. We were thankful that we had the opportunity years ago to see the statue of David, the Duomo, the bell tower, etc., because they are definitely sights not to be missed.
It was sort of fun to get caught in a second thunderstorm later in the afternoon, although I don't think Den would agree. We huddled under awnings on the Ponte de Vecchio with hundreds of others, waiting for the rain to stop pelting. Back at the hotel, happy hour and some good conversation with other hotel guests cheered us up and made us temporarily forget about the bus ride home that took three times as long as if we had chosen to walk.
As much as we loved every moment in Assisi staying at Alla Madonna del Piatto www.incampagna.com we were only a little sad to leave because each day over here holds new adventures and surprises. We headed for Firenze (Florence) and decided to stop in Cortona on the way. Having read and watched the movie Under the Tuscan Sun which is set in Cortona, we just had to stop and see if we recognized any of the scenery (we did) or if we could actually find the house, Bramisole (we did not). Apparently the author, Frances Mayes still lives here for part of each year in the villa she renovated with her husband and they are respected members of the community. Cortona is a town to which we would return.
Come to think of it, Letizia and her husband, Ruurd, our hosts at the B&B in Assisi, had a similar experience to the couple in the Tuscan Sun story. Letizia is Italian, Ruurd is Dutch. Letizia lived in the States for ten years where she obtained her PhD in entymology; Ruurd is also an entymologist. They found their old farmhouse, parts of which date from the 1500's, high in the hills above the town of Assisi, and knew they had to have it. After what must have been a tremendous amount of hard work, they renovated it into a six room bed and breakfast. During the construction, she discovered a plate with a picture of the Madonna, hence the name she chose for the house, Alla Madonna del Piatto. The view and the sense of peace from their home is indescribable. You will just have to come here.
Anyway, I digress. From Cortona, we took the autostrada to Firenze and arrived right at the beginning of a thunderstorm. I couldn't recall much about why I had reserved the hotel I had, so, once again I was a little concerned. Scored again! The Hotel David is in a perfect location, just a 15 minute walk from the main Piazza della Signoria close to all the must-sees. It has free everything: free parking, free wi-fi, free (fabulous) breakfast, free mini-bar (yes, eat and drink the whole frig full), free 10 minute phone call to pretty much anywhere in the world, and free happy hour in their beautiful old lounge complete with a table full of appetizers. Stay here. It's a good one. We haven't had a bad place yet.
So far on this trip, Florence is the only city that we visited when we came to Europe the first time. We loved it then, and we actually made a second visit to it on that trip. We have to admit we were disappointed today. It was crawling with tourists and tour groups and there were lines to see all the major sites which we knew required tickets to be purchased online in advance. We were thankful that we had the opportunity years ago to see the statue of David, the Duomo, the bell tower, etc., because they are definitely sights not to be missed.
It was sort of fun to get caught in a second thunderstorm later in the afternoon, although I don't think Den would agree. We huddled under awnings on the Ponte de Vecchio with hundreds of others, waiting for the rain to stop pelting. Back at the hotel, happy hour and some good conversation with other hotel guests cheered us up and made us temporarily forget about the bus ride home that took three times as long as if we had chosen to walk.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Underground in Orvieto's caveens
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Our day began with a half-decent breakfast around the table chatting with a couple from Australia over one too many cups of rich Italian coffee. We headed up the hill to Orvieto, found the heavily frescoed Duomo and purchased tickets for an underground tour of the caverns. Every third step one takes here is above one of 1200 caves or caverns dating from Etruscan and medieval times that honeycomb this city. We saw the remains of an old olive press where blindfolded donkeys walked in circles turning a heavy stone wheel, deep Etruscan well shafts, quarries, and most interesting to us, rooms of rows of small square cubicles carved into the soft rock where pigeons were raised for their eggs, their meat, and for sale. Now we truly understand the term "pigeon-holed".
Assisi was our next destination. While we did arrive at the agritourismo where we were headed, (www.incampagna.com) I think we covered a lot more kilometres than we needed to. We need a more detailed map than the one we have. Once again, it was one of those "Whatever have I done?" moments as we drove further and further, higher and higher along narrow country roads in the hills above Assisi. Ruurd, our Dutch host, was here to greet us and show us around his home, parts of which date from the 1500's! The vistas from this house are amazing. We sat under the pergola watching a shepherd with his flock and his dogs in the field below. From our room's window, we can see for miles over Assisi and a wide expanse of valley. Right now, at dusk, we can hear frogs croaking, see the twinkling lights of the city below, and smell the freshness of the air after this afternoon's rain. The Basilica of St. Francis is fully lit and it looks as if it's glowing. Peace. When I asked Ruurd this afternoon what made he and Letizia choose to live here, he just smiled, waved his hand over the view and said exactly that. Peace.
Our day began with a half-decent breakfast around the table chatting with a couple from Australia over one too many cups of rich Italian coffee. We headed up the hill to Orvieto, found the heavily frescoed Duomo and purchased tickets for an underground tour of the caverns. Every third step one takes here is above one of 1200 caves or caverns dating from Etruscan and medieval times that honeycomb this city. We saw the remains of an old olive press where blindfolded donkeys walked in circles turning a heavy stone wheel, deep Etruscan well shafts, quarries, and most interesting to us, rooms of rows of small square cubicles carved into the soft rock where pigeons were raised for their eggs, their meat, and for sale. Now we truly understand the term "pigeon-holed".
Assisi was our next destination. While we did arrive at the agritourismo where we were headed, (www.incampagna.com) I think we covered a lot more kilometres than we needed to. We need a more detailed map than the one we have. Once again, it was one of those "Whatever have I done?" moments as we drove further and further, higher and higher along narrow country roads in the hills above Assisi. Ruurd, our Dutch host, was here to greet us and show us around his home, parts of which date from the 1500's! The vistas from this house are amazing. We sat under the pergola watching a shepherd with his flock and his dogs in the field below. From our room's window, we can see for miles over Assisi and a wide expanse of valley. Right now, at dusk, we can hear frogs croaking, see the twinkling lights of the city below, and smell the freshness of the air after this afternoon's rain. The Basilica of St. Francis is fully lit and it looks as if it's glowing. Peace. When I asked Ruurd this afternoon what made he and Letizia choose to live here, he just smiled, waved his hand over the view and said exactly that. Peace.
The Hill Towns of Tuscany and Civita di Bagnoregio
July 26, 2010
The Hill Towns of Tuscany and Sunset at Civita di Bagnoregio
After our farmhouse breakfast, we, that is, Elaine, decided that we needed to sit in an outdoor cafe in the main square of Siena and people-watch for awhile. I had a mocchaccino that I have to admit I thoroughly enjoyed. Touring the Duomo, with Rick Steves in hand, was worth every cent of the admission charge. The Italian architecture is quite different from the French and it reminded us of the Duomo in Florence that we saw 36 years ago and will see again in a few days.
We headed south along the back roads to tour the hill towns of Tuscany. Without exaggeration, I probably took 50 pictures of landscapes along the way. The road had several pull- out spots where others had obviously felt compelled to do the same. Rolling hills, patchwork-quilt fields of wheat, grapevines, sunflowers, and olive groves punctuated by rows of cypress trees lining the skyline provided one OMG after another.
First stop: Montalcino, famous for Brunella of Montalcino vino rosso. We wandered through this village, set high on a hilltop with a commanding view of the countryside and had a focaccia panini in a little enoteca, complete with a glass of lovely red before heading to the next stop: Montepulciano, whose red wine we had previously sampled at home.
Then we headed further south to Orvieto, our destination for the night. I always feel a little nervous just before arriving at our accommodation. Did I pick a good one? Is it going to be a dive? So far we have had fabulous rooms every single night. And this one is no exception. Situated right smack at the base of the escarpment of the walled city of Orvieto, it is a B&B tucked in an olive grove with a colourful garden and a pergola draped in lush grapevines. Our room is scrupulously clean and can only be described as cute. It has a fresh white coverlet on the (unusually) comfortable bed, country style furnishings, decals of cats at the base of the walls, a colourful wooden parrot on a perch over the bed and a large bathroom. We have a wrought iron table and chairs set on a stone patio surrounded by flowers and hand-painted stones.
We were anxious to see the nearby town of Civita di Bagnoregio, which, according to Rick Steves, is Italy's ultimate hill town (www.civitadibagnoregio.it). It dates from Etruscan and ancient Roman times and has a distinctly medieval feel to it. Perched on a hill of soft rock that has eroded over time, it is connected to the rest of the world by a
pedestrian bridge. We read that only fourteen people, all elderly, still live here but it appeared to us that there were several recently renovated (and likely very pricey) apartments. Wandering through this ancient town as the sun was setting and imagining day- to- day life in medieval times was a memory we will hold on to.
Also not to be forgotten was my moment of panic a few hours later in Orvieto. After dining in a trattoria on a cobblestone street, we went to find the access to our car in the parking lot. Locked. Closed at 21:00. It's 21:30. Our car is about four levels underground in this city of caverns and we have no idea whatsoever how to get down to it. It's dark. The flashlight that we were given at the B&B is, you guessed it, in the car. Good thing Italians are friendly and helpful. A desk clerk from a nearby hotel helped us out and we were on our way "home".
Enough experiences for this girl for one day.
The Hill Towns of Tuscany and Sunset at Civita di Bagnoregio
After our farmhouse breakfast, we, that is, Elaine, decided that we needed to sit in an outdoor cafe in the main square of Siena and people-watch for awhile. I had a mocchaccino that I have to admit I thoroughly enjoyed. Touring the Duomo, with Rick Steves in hand, was worth every cent of the admission charge. The Italian architecture is quite different from the French and it reminded us of the Duomo in Florence that we saw 36 years ago and will see again in a few days.
We headed south along the back roads to tour the hill towns of Tuscany. Without exaggeration, I probably took 50 pictures of landscapes along the way. The road had several pull- out spots where others had obviously felt compelled to do the same. Rolling hills, patchwork-quilt fields of wheat, grapevines, sunflowers, and olive groves punctuated by rows of cypress trees lining the skyline provided one OMG after another.
First stop: Montalcino, famous for Brunella of Montalcino vino rosso. We wandered through this village, set high on a hilltop with a commanding view of the countryside and had a focaccia panini in a little enoteca, complete with a glass of lovely red before heading to the next stop: Montepulciano, whose red wine we had previously sampled at home.
Then we headed further south to Orvieto, our destination for the night. I always feel a little nervous just before arriving at our accommodation. Did I pick a good one? Is it going to be a dive? So far we have had fabulous rooms every single night. And this one is no exception. Situated right smack at the base of the escarpment of the walled city of Orvieto, it is a B&B tucked in an olive grove with a colourful garden and a pergola draped in lush grapevines. Our room is scrupulously clean and can only be described as cute. It has a fresh white coverlet on the (unusually) comfortable bed, country style furnishings, decals of cats at the base of the walls, a colourful wooden parrot on a perch over the bed and a large bathroom. We have a wrought iron table and chairs set on a stone patio surrounded by flowers and hand-painted stones.
We were anxious to see the nearby town of Civita di Bagnoregio, which, according to Rick Steves, is Italy's ultimate hill town (www.civitadibagnoregio.it). It dates from Etruscan and ancient Roman times and has a distinctly medieval feel to it. Perched on a hill of soft rock that has eroded over time, it is connected to the rest of the world by a
pedestrian bridge. We read that only fourteen people, all elderly, still live here but it appeared to us that there were several recently renovated (and likely very pricey) apartments. Wandering through this ancient town as the sun was setting and imagining day- to- day life in medieval times was a memory we will hold on to.
Also not to be forgotten was my moment of panic a few hours later in Orvieto. After dining in a trattoria on a cobblestone street, we went to find the access to our car in the parking lot. Locked. Closed at 21:00. It's 21:30. Our car is about four levels underground in this city of caverns and we have no idea whatsoever how to get down to it. It's dark. The flashlight that we were given at the B&B is, you guessed it, in the car. Good thing Italians are friendly and helpful. A desk clerk from a nearby hotel helped us out and we were on our way "home".
Enough experiences for this girl for one day.
Sunday, July 25, 2010
Living my Dream!
What woman hasn't dreamed of sleeping in a Tuscan farmhouse overlooking patchwork fields and vineyards? This agritourismo is everything I had hoped it would be. Last night we slept with the little window wide open and a full moon shining on the surrounding hills. Our room has a stone floor and wood ceiling beams, a wrought iron bed with a white crocheted spread. Beautiful. We have just finished breakfast in the farmhouse kitchen--big long wooden table around which all the guests gather--coffee, banana milkshake, granola, fruit, yogurt, hoemade cake, homemade bread, jams, jellies --you get the picture. Off to explore Siena and head south today.
Lost in Lucca, Peeked at Pisa, and Sleeping in Siena OR Under the Tuscan Sun
July 25, 2010
Happy 92nd Birthday, Mom
Now THIS is what I came to Italy for! We are here at Agritourismo Marciano, in the hills just outside Siena.
Highlights of our day:
Hearing the Sicilian pastry chef trying to entice us to try one of his fresh pastries with our cappuccinos this morning as we waited for the shuttle bus to take us from Vernazza up to our car. We relented. I chose a nutella twist. It literally melted in our mouths.
Surviving the narrow twisting road through the hillsides above the Cinque Terre to the highway. It was Sunday and luckily there were few cars on the road.
Getting lost in the walled city of Lucca and not caring if we saw the city's landmarks.
Leaving the leaning tower of Pisa without posing as if we were holding it up.
Having a fabulous lunch in San Gimignano in a piazza with a 13th century well. Walking to the top of the town to see the amazing view of the Tuscan countryside.
Feeling grateful for Rick and Karen. Not the Melsons. Rick Steves who guides us through each town, tells us interesting facts and leads us to great restaurants and places to stay, and Karen, our GPS, who sometimes has to put up with our abuse when we yell at her or call her an idiot, but who usually gets us where we need to be.
Feeling very grateful that Denis can figure out where we are and how to get back to where we need to be. Uncanny actually.
Walking into Il Campo, the main piazza in Siena for the first time. Having a rustic soup in a little restaurant. Watching the flag bearers perform in the piazza. Seeing the light on the buildings as the sun was setting. Coming back here to see the full moon over the vineyards. Looking forward to having breakfast here in the morning and sipping coffee in Siena later on.
Life is good, or as Den remarked, "That wraps up another full day."
Happy 92nd Birthday, Mom
Now THIS is what I came to Italy for! We are here at Agritourismo Marciano, in the hills just outside Siena.
Highlights of our day:
Hearing the Sicilian pastry chef trying to entice us to try one of his fresh pastries with our cappuccinos this morning as we waited for the shuttle bus to take us from Vernazza up to our car. We relented. I chose a nutella twist. It literally melted in our mouths.
Surviving the narrow twisting road through the hillsides above the Cinque Terre to the highway. It was Sunday and luckily there were few cars on the road.
Getting lost in the walled city of Lucca and not caring if we saw the city's landmarks.
Leaving the leaning tower of Pisa without posing as if we were holding it up.
Having a fabulous lunch in San Gimignano in a piazza with a 13th century well. Walking to the top of the town to see the amazing view of the Tuscan countryside.
Feeling grateful for Rick and Karen. Not the Melsons. Rick Steves who guides us through each town, tells us interesting facts and leads us to great restaurants and places to stay, and Karen, our GPS, who sometimes has to put up with our abuse when we yell at her or call her an idiot, but who usually gets us where we need to be.
Feeling very grateful that Denis can figure out where we are and how to get back to where we need to be. Uncanny actually.
Walking into Il Campo, the main piazza in Siena for the first time. Having a rustic soup in a little restaurant. Watching the flag bearers perform in the piazza. Seeing the light on the buildings as the sun was setting. Coming back here to see the full moon over the vineyards. Looking forward to having breakfast here in the morning and sipping coffee in Siena later on.
Life is good, or as Den remarked, "That wraps up another full day."
the Lazy Life of Vernazza and the Soup Nazi
July 24, 2010
Happy 6th Anniversary, Andrea and Trevor!
Today we experienced the "vita pigra de Vernazza"--the lazy life of Vernazza. We decided to stay here and explore this little town.
Vernazza's main street is a series of small shops: enotecas, pizzarias, gelaterias, focaccerias, a bakery, a couple of small grocery stores and a lot of small cafes, bars, and restaurants. The main activity seems to be passeggiata, walking slowly along, watching the passers-by. We climbed a lot of stairs to visit the castle and the tower where medieval villagers kept an eye out for pirates and we hiked up to the church. Big waves in the harbour meant that parts of the swimming area were roped off and we found the swarms of tourists particularly annoying, so we picked up some grapes, focaccia crackers, and local wine and headed back up to our retreat on the hillside. I discovered that the hammock slung between the lemon trees and the grapevines was a lovely spot to enjoy the sunshine, the view, and my book.
Giuliano told us that four nights is best here to really get the feel for Vernazza, and he may be right. We have become more relaxed as the days have passed, and our initial annoyance at the high priced lunch on our first day here is long gone. At the same time, we are looking forward to moving on and discovering more of Italy.
Best moments of the day:
Denis calling the grumpy pizza man the Soup Nazi.
Relaxing in the hammock and hearing the breeze rustling through the lemon trees and the grapevines.
Happy 6th Anniversary, Andrea and Trevor!
Today we experienced the "vita pigra de Vernazza"--the lazy life of Vernazza. We decided to stay here and explore this little town.
Vernazza's main street is a series of small shops: enotecas, pizzarias, gelaterias, focaccerias, a bakery, a couple of small grocery stores and a lot of small cafes, bars, and restaurants. The main activity seems to be passeggiata, walking slowly along, watching the passers-by. We climbed a lot of stairs to visit the castle and the tower where medieval villagers kept an eye out for pirates and we hiked up to the church. Big waves in the harbour meant that parts of the swimming area were roped off and we found the swarms of tourists particularly annoying, so we picked up some grapes, focaccia crackers, and local wine and headed back up to our retreat on the hillside. I discovered that the hammock slung between the lemon trees and the grapevines was a lovely spot to enjoy the sunshine, the view, and my book.
Giuliano told us that four nights is best here to really get the feel for Vernazza, and he may be right. We have become more relaxed as the days have passed, and our initial annoyance at the high priced lunch on our first day here is long gone. At the same time, we are looking forward to moving on and discovering more of Italy.
Best moments of the day:
Denis calling the grumpy pizza man the Soup Nazi.
Relaxing in the hammock and hearing the breeze rustling through the lemon trees and the grapevines.
First day in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre
Levanto to Vernazza
Left the Garden Hotel in Levanto mid morning to drive the short distance to Vernazza, one of the towns on the Cinque Terre. The road here was very narrow, mostly single lane, and twisty with hairpin turns, steep cliffs and breathtaking views of tiny villages and the ocean below. As the Cinque Terre is a national park, it is off limits to cars. We parked in the lot above Vernazza and were shuttled down by bus to the village. Here we easily followed our email directions to ask for Guiliano in the first enoteca (wine bar) on the left. He happened to be right outside on the street and took us up to our camere, our room for the next three nights.
He has built four rooms on the side of the mountain. It is hard to describe. Three are joined and share patio areas, in and amongst his gardens. We have access to a shared kitchen where we have our own shelf in the frig, coffee and tea, dishes, and beach towels. We are above the town and have a view of the town and the harbour.
The town clock chimes every half hour and the train whizzes through every 20 minutes or so.
We strolled through the town, which is really just one street and then chose a restaurant for lunch on the main square, for the first time without looking at the menu before sitting down. Big mistake. We ended up paying 45 euros for a caprese salad, some cheese croquettes, a small seafood salad, one beer, and water. We were charged 6 euros for the basket of bread that was plopped down on our table with the beverages--we have never been charged for bread before in either Italy or France. Feeling ripped off was not a good way to start our visit here. We spent the afternoon on the breakwater in the sunshine, swimming in the deep water to cool off. We found a grocery store, bought supplies for breakfast, ordered a pizza and had dinner on our patio. Much cheaper.
The Cinque Terre was one of our destinations that we were most excited about. I felt really fortunate to have been able to reserve this spot--the #1 rated accommodation on tripadvisor in the "jewel" of these five towns, according to Rick Steves. The town is a photographer's dream. The buildings are all soft colours, mostly peach or yellow with green shutters and they tumble down the cliff toward the sea. Laundry hangs from windows. The hills around the town are terraced for small gardens and tiny vineyards. The town clock dominates the scene but there is evidence of ancient stone remains all over. However, it is absolutely crawling with tourists. The streets are jam-packed and the prices are high. We had expected a quiet little out-of-the-way spot where we could relax, hike, swim, and enjoy the small villages. Not so. We are feeling quite disappointed. Perhaps it is just the heat that is getting to us. We have been in this heat wave since arriving in Europe. A cool rainy day would be a nice change right now!
We have planned our itinerary for tomorrow. I have a massage appointment early in the morning after which we are going to see all five villages by either boat, trail, or train.
Left the Garden Hotel in Levanto mid morning to drive the short distance to Vernazza, one of the towns on the Cinque Terre. The road here was very narrow, mostly single lane, and twisty with hairpin turns, steep cliffs and breathtaking views of tiny villages and the ocean below. As the Cinque Terre is a national park, it is off limits to cars. We parked in the lot above Vernazza and were shuttled down by bus to the village. Here we easily followed our email directions to ask for Guiliano in the first enoteca (wine bar) on the left. He happened to be right outside on the street and took us up to our camere, our room for the next three nights.
He has built four rooms on the side of the mountain. It is hard to describe. Three are joined and share patio areas, in and amongst his gardens. We have access to a shared kitchen where we have our own shelf in the frig, coffee and tea, dishes, and beach towels. We are above the town and have a view of the town and the harbour.
The town clock chimes every half hour and the train whizzes through every 20 minutes or so.
We strolled through the town, which is really just one street and then chose a restaurant for lunch on the main square, for the first time without looking at the menu before sitting down. Big mistake. We ended up paying 45 euros for a caprese salad, some cheese croquettes, a small seafood salad, one beer, and water. We were charged 6 euros for the basket of bread that was plopped down on our table with the beverages--we have never been charged for bread before in either Italy or France. Feeling ripped off was not a good way to start our visit here. We spent the afternoon on the breakwater in the sunshine, swimming in the deep water to cool off. We found a grocery store, bought supplies for breakfast, ordered a pizza and had dinner on our patio. Much cheaper.
The Cinque Terre was one of our destinations that we were most excited about. I felt really fortunate to have been able to reserve this spot--the #1 rated accommodation on tripadvisor in the "jewel" of these five towns, according to Rick Steves. The town is a photographer's dream. The buildings are all soft colours, mostly peach or yellow with green shutters and they tumble down the cliff toward the sea. Laundry hangs from windows. The hills around the town are terraced for small gardens and tiny vineyards. The town clock dominates the scene but there is evidence of ancient stone remains all over. However, it is absolutely crawling with tourists. The streets are jam-packed and the prices are high. We had expected a quiet little out-of-the-way spot where we could relax, hike, swim, and enjoy the small villages. Not so. We are feeling quite disappointed. Perhaps it is just the heat that is getting to us. We have been in this heat wave since arriving in Europe. A cool rainy day would be a nice change right now!
We have planned our itinerary for tomorrow. I have a massage appointment early in the morning after which we are going to see all five villages by either boat, trail, or train.
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Pizza by the Pound and Skinny French Women
Levanto. On the north west coast of Italy.
We can certainly see why Andrea and Trevor loved this little town when they were here four years ago. It is a charming mix of the old and the new. We arrived about 2 p.m. after feeling like moles on the autostrada. We passed through more than a hundred tunnels on the way here, blinking in the light as we exited each one.
Already we have hiked through the Old Town, bought pizza and focaccia by weight, gone for a swim at the beach, wandered through the shops, and had appies and dinner in a little outdoor enoteca, or wine bar. Tomorrow is market day here, so we will be shopping for locally made pesto to bring home in our suitcases.
We've had the opportunity to do lots of people-watching on this trip, and now that we've been in two countries, I just have to comment on the women! The French women are gorgeous. They are all thin. They dress for lunch like I would dress for a wedding or for New Year's Eve. No exaggeration. I remember sitting next to a mom who was taking her young son out for lunch. She was wearing a black frilly georgette dress. I cannot comprehend how they walk on cobblestone streets in the heels they wear. They all sport an expensive bag that matches their outfit and they wear lots of bling. Clothing that we might consider risque looks feminine on them. Even the older women are slim and well turned out and perfectly accessorized. Everyone wears dresses. It is rare to see jeans. And yet, they sit in cafes and eat buttery croissants for breakfast, have 2 hour multi-course lunches complete with wine, and dinner is another major event of the day. The only joggers I have seen were on the street early in the morning in Nice and judging by their clothing, they looked like North American tourists. Go figure. Italian women, on the other hand, don't seem to follow suit. They all seem to be quite comfortable in their own skin, if their choice of bathing suits is any indication. No worrying about a little muffin top here! However, the sad part of this observation is that they all seem to smoke. We had read that smoking was banned in public places in France, but we have yet to discover where those public places might be!
We can certainly see why Andrea and Trevor loved this little town when they were here four years ago. It is a charming mix of the old and the new. We arrived about 2 p.m. after feeling like moles on the autostrada. We passed through more than a hundred tunnels on the way here, blinking in the light as we exited each one.
Already we have hiked through the Old Town, bought pizza and focaccia by weight, gone for a swim at the beach, wandered through the shops, and had appies and dinner in a little outdoor enoteca, or wine bar. Tomorrow is market day here, so we will be shopping for locally made pesto to bring home in our suitcases.
We've had the opportunity to do lots of people-watching on this trip, and now that we've been in two countries, I just have to comment on the women! The French women are gorgeous. They are all thin. They dress for lunch like I would dress for a wedding or for New Year's Eve. No exaggeration. I remember sitting next to a mom who was taking her young son out for lunch. She was wearing a black frilly georgette dress. I cannot comprehend how they walk on cobblestone streets in the heels they wear. They all sport an expensive bag that matches their outfit and they wear lots of bling. Clothing that we might consider risque looks feminine on them. Even the older women are slim and well turned out and perfectly accessorized. Everyone wears dresses. It is rare to see jeans. And yet, they sit in cafes and eat buttery croissants for breakfast, have 2 hour multi-course lunches complete with wine, and dinner is another major event of the day. The only joggers I have seen were on the street early in the morning in Nice and judging by their clothing, they looked like North American tourists. Go figure. Italian women, on the other hand, don't seem to follow suit. They all seem to be quite comfortable in their own skin, if their choice of bathing suits is any indication. No worrying about a little muffin top here! However, the sad part of this observation is that they all seem to smoke. We had read that smoking was banned in public places in France, but we have yet to discover where those public places might be!
A Day of Rest
July 19
A Day of Rest
Today we just hung out. We headed to our hotel's beach (600 meters down the road) this morning and swam, sunned, and people- watched from our rented sun beds. For 13 euros we were led to our spot for a half day, complete with 2 loungers, an umbrella, and an attached table. The ocean is lovely and warm. The pizza was good, too.
Entering Italy yesterday with no knowledge of the language was a bit of a shock, but it struck me today that some language is universal. We watched grandparents fawning over a 6 month old baby boy, cooing to him all the while as they made trip after trip to the tap to fill containers to fill his tiny wading pool. Mothereze, or in this case, grandmothereze, is understood by all.
It was good to just relax around the pool and read our books today. We bumbled our way through a supermarcato and found items for a picnic dinner. Tomorrow we're off to Levanto.
A Day of Rest
Today we just hung out. We headed to our hotel's beach (600 meters down the road) this morning and swam, sunned, and people- watched from our rented sun beds. For 13 euros we were led to our spot for a half day, complete with 2 loungers, an umbrella, and an attached table. The ocean is lovely and warm. The pizza was good, too.
Entering Italy yesterday with no knowledge of the language was a bit of a shock, but it struck me today that some language is universal. We watched grandparents fawning over a 6 month old baby boy, cooing to him all the while as they made trip after trip to the tap to fill containers to fill his tiny wading pool. Mothereze, or in this case, grandmothereze, is understood by all.
It was good to just relax around the pool and read our books today. We bumbled our way through a supermarcato and found items for a picnic dinner. Tomorrow we're off to Levanto.
Matisse, Monte Carlo, and a Malfunctioning GPS
July 18. Matisse, Monte Carlo, and a GPS Malfunction
Coffee on the street as the city of Nice was waking up. Nice way to start our day.
The Matisse Museum in Nice was next. My knowledge of this artist was limited to a cursory review of his works in an undergrad art class at UVic. I wasn't aware of the scope of the media with which he experimented--from realistic oils, pointillism, line drawings, cubism, to cut-outs in his later years. I'm motivated to have next year's Grade Ones create a mural in his cut-out style.
On to the ancient Roman city of Eze. We didn't give this the attention it probably deserved as it was crawling with tourists and bus tours and it was stinkin' hot out. Stunning views of the Mediterranean and surrounding area from here.
Monaco next! Missed the turnoff to the palace so we went to the casino in Monte Carlo first. Lost our self-imposed gambling limit of 5 euros in less than 2 minutes. We joined the hordes of lookie-loos gawking at the ridiculously expensive cars parked in front. This is just not our "scene" but since we were here, we felt we should see it all. Back-tracked to see Prince Ranier's palace and the cathedral where he and Princess Grace were married (and where she is now buried). Toured the beautiful gardens from where we had spectacular views of yacht basins chock full of multi-million dollar yachts and surrounding apartments complete with roof-top swimming pools and gardens. Monaco has a population of about 30 000, but only 10 000 of these are permanent residents (who pay no income tax). Drove part of the race track through town where the annual Grand Prix is held. Walked up and down way too many stairs today. Got a blister.
Crossed into Italy, driving through tunnel after tunnel, which may, or may not have been the reason our beloved GPS failed us! It decided to stop just as we neared Sanremo, our destination for the night. Did we have a map of the city? Of course not. Rick Steeves doesn't mention this spot, so we didn't even have the address of the Tourist Information office. Driving around this town of 50 000 people looking for our hotel proved futile. We finally found a sign pointing to the tourist info office, parked in a loading zone and started walking. . . and walking . . . and walking. On my blister. We gave up, returned to our loading zone spot, began driving once again, and Hey look! The GPS is working just fine. Karen, or whatever her name is, was talking to us once again, and we arrived at our hotel in a few minutes.
Sanremo is a tourist resort town. The buildings are painted in soft pink, peach, apricot and butter yellow, many with olive green shutters and wrought iron railings on little balconies. It bursts with colour from the flower gardens--bougainvillaea, hibiscus, and impatiens grow under tall palm trees. A promenade stretches along the beach right through town. We walked about 3km along it, (on my blister) looking for a good place to eat, and of course, another 3 km back . . . on my . . . . .
Coffee on the street as the city of Nice was waking up. Nice way to start our day.
The Matisse Museum in Nice was next. My knowledge of this artist was limited to a cursory review of his works in an undergrad art class at UVic. I wasn't aware of the scope of the media with which he experimented--from realistic oils, pointillism, line drawings, cubism, to cut-outs in his later years. I'm motivated to have next year's Grade Ones create a mural in his cut-out style.
On to the ancient Roman city of Eze. We didn't give this the attention it probably deserved as it was crawling with tourists and bus tours and it was stinkin' hot out. Stunning views of the Mediterranean and surrounding area from here.
Monaco next! Missed the turnoff to the palace so we went to the casino in Monte Carlo first. Lost our self-imposed gambling limit of 5 euros in less than 2 minutes. We joined the hordes of lookie-loos gawking at the ridiculously expensive cars parked in front. This is just not our "scene" but since we were here, we felt we should see it all. Back-tracked to see Prince Ranier's palace and the cathedral where he and Princess Grace were married (and where she is now buried). Toured the beautiful gardens from where we had spectacular views of yacht basins chock full of multi-million dollar yachts and surrounding apartments complete with roof-top swimming pools and gardens. Monaco has a population of about 30 000, but only 10 000 of these are permanent residents (who pay no income tax). Drove part of the race track through town where the annual Grand Prix is held. Walked up and down way too many stairs today. Got a blister.
Crossed into Italy, driving through tunnel after tunnel, which may, or may not have been the reason our beloved GPS failed us! It decided to stop just as we neared Sanremo, our destination for the night. Did we have a map of the city? Of course not. Rick Steeves doesn't mention this spot, so we didn't even have the address of the Tourist Information office. Driving around this town of 50 000 people looking for our hotel proved futile. We finally found a sign pointing to the tourist info office, parked in a loading zone and started walking. . . and walking . . . and walking. On my blister. We gave up, returned to our loading zone spot, began driving once again, and Hey look! The GPS is working just fine. Karen, or whatever her name is, was talking to us once again, and we arrived at our hotel in a few minutes.
Sanremo is a tourist resort town. The buildings are painted in soft pink, peach, apricot and butter yellow, many with olive green shutters and wrought iron railings on little balconies. It bursts with colour from the flower gardens--bougainvillaea, hibiscus, and impatiens grow under tall palm trees. A promenade stretches along the beach right through town. We walked about 3km along it, (on my blister) looking for a good place to eat, and of course, another 3 km back . . . on my . . . . .
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Nice to be in Nice
Nice is a beautiful city and we quite like it here. We arrived mid- day, headed for the Promenade des Anglais (a 5km promenade alomg the waterfront, built so the wealthy holidaying British could enjoy the beach without having to walk on the stones). We checked out the mall, since it was air-conditioned, grabbed a bite to eat and checked into our hotel. Love it! Great location right downtown, beautifully decorated room, helpful desk clerk. Spent tne afternoon exploring the old town, had socca (chickpea pancake, yum) and beer in a little cafe on the Cours Saleya near the flower market, and did a little shopping, pour moi. We checked out the restaurants Rick Steeves recommended, chose one close to our hotel and made our selections from the menu, with a little help from the garcon. People are so helpful here. They go out of their way to make sure you get what you want, or what you need. When we ordered a carafe of red wine, our waiter looked horrified. "With risotto? Avec le poisson? Ah non, non, non!" He then suggested a white from the north of France, brought us some to sample, and filled our glasses once we agreed. Mon dieu, such a faux pas! I happen to like red wine, and will drink it with anything, but I could see there was no point in upsetting him.
Took way too many pictures of cute narrow streets today. Must stop this nonsense.
Planning to see Matisse Museum in the morning, Eze on Jackie and Jim's recommendation, then on to Monte Carlo.
Took way too many pictures of cute narrow streets today. Must stop this nonsense.
Planning to see Matisse Museum in the morning, Eze on Jackie and Jim's recommendation, then on to Monte Carlo.
Friday, July 16, 2010
If you don't open the door, you can't go inside
Things we have learned about ourselves as travelers:
1. Den has an amazing sense of direction and can find anything, even when the GPS seems confused. He always landmarks.
2. Elaine has no sense of direction. None. Zippo. (Den just added Nada). She forgets to landmark but can describe in utmost detail the clothing, including bling, of the last five women we just passed on the street.
3. You must put things back exactly where you found them in a suitcase. Exactly. All the time. No exceptions. Even if it not a logical place to keep it. Don't argue with him. Just do it. And remember that the parking ticket always goes next to his Canadian money in his pocket.
4. If you look behind closed doors (or up tiny alleys) you will find amazing surprises.
After a tiring day full of sightseeing in Cannes and Antibes yesterday, we decided to stay close to "home" at the cottage today. We slept in, had a leisurely breakfast and we had the pool to ourselves for the afternoon. We set out about 3:00 to drive a circle route through a series of small nearby villages, labeled as being "green". We are still not sure if that refers to their environmental standards, their agricultural status, or something else.
Who cares? The unexpected surprises we found hiding in these spots are something we will remember forever.
We spotted a village way at the top of a mountain, took pictures of it from the wheat field below, then found that the road led us right up to it. I was content to simply look at the incredible vista below, but Den urged me on down a narrow street where some of the villagers were playing boules (like bocce ball) in the street. I felt we might be intruding into their private space, but followed along.
This village, Faux Amphoux, dates from the 11th century. Eleventh! Many of the buildings still in use were constructed in the 16th and 17th centuries. Once we stepped into the village, it felt absolutely magical. I found myself obsessed with taking pictures of doors, some so old they may have been original, some partially repaired, one brand new. It was fun to imagine what those doors were hiding. Behind one we heard piano music, behind another someone answered a telephone, others gave us glimpses of people going about their daily work. Den took a picture of me sitting in an ancient stone doorway that led into a room of rubble. How many generations stepped over that same threshhold before me?
The next three villages were full of surprises, as well. One was bullt into the side of a mountain (how DID they do that way back then?) Another memory we'll hold on to is driving up a very narrow streeet in a little town, being yelled at and laughing with a couple of locals once we realized we had almost gone down a one-way street the wrong way, and THEN heading into a street so narrow we thought we might haveto take the mirrors off the car.
So . . . lots of learning about ourselves a travelers today . . . and we'll keep on opening those doors.
1. Den has an amazing sense of direction and can find anything, even when the GPS seems confused. He always landmarks.
2. Elaine has no sense of direction. None. Zippo. (Den just added Nada). She forgets to landmark but can describe in utmost detail the clothing, including bling, of the last five women we just passed on the street.
3. You must put things back exactly where you found them in a suitcase. Exactly. All the time. No exceptions. Even if it not a logical place to keep it. Don't argue with him. Just do it. And remember that the parking ticket always goes next to his Canadian money in his pocket.
4. If you look behind closed doors (or up tiny alleys) you will find amazing surprises.
After a tiring day full of sightseeing in Cannes and Antibes yesterday, we decided to stay close to "home" at the cottage today. We slept in, had a leisurely breakfast and we had the pool to ourselves for the afternoon. We set out about 3:00 to drive a circle route through a series of small nearby villages, labeled as being "green". We are still not sure if that refers to their environmental standards, their agricultural status, or something else.
Who cares? The unexpected surprises we found hiding in these spots are something we will remember forever.
We spotted a village way at the top of a mountain, took pictures of it from the wheat field below, then found that the road led us right up to it. I was content to simply look at the incredible vista below, but Den urged me on down a narrow street where some of the villagers were playing boules (like bocce ball) in the street. I felt we might be intruding into their private space, but followed along.
This village, Faux Amphoux, dates from the 11th century. Eleventh! Many of the buildings still in use were constructed in the 16th and 17th centuries. Once we stepped into the village, it felt absolutely magical. I found myself obsessed with taking pictures of doors, some so old they may have been original, some partially repaired, one brand new. It was fun to imagine what those doors were hiding. Behind one we heard piano music, behind another someone answered a telephone, others gave us glimpses of people going about their daily work. Den took a picture of me sitting in an ancient stone doorway that led into a room of rubble. How many generations stepped over that same threshhold before me?
The next three villages were full of surprises, as well. One was bullt into the side of a mountain (how DID they do that way back then?) Another memory we'll hold on to is driving up a very narrow streeet in a little town, being yelled at and laughing with a couple of locals once we realized we had almost gone down a one-way street the wrong way, and THEN heading into a street so narrow we thought we might haveto take the mirrors off the car.
So . . . lots of learning about ourselves a travelers today . . . and we'll keep on opening those doors.
Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous-- not us! July 15, 2010
While this vacation seems to be costing less than we had budgeted, we will never have the money, or the lifestyle, that we saw today in Cannes-- and nor would we want to. This city is on a beautiful stretch of silky sandy beach and it is easy to see why the wealthy Brits chose it as their summer playground. Our pictures on Facebook show how some people choose to spend their excess money. Here you have a choice. You can squeeze your towel in between the hordes on the public beach, or you can rent a sun bed on a private beach, where you are also squeezed in. Rates vary from about $35 per bed to $260, depending on where it is situated. Front row beds are obviously more.
We joined in with the tourists and took a photo of me walking down the red carpet from the Palais des Festivals where the Cannes Film Festival is held every year in May. We also found the Hotel Carlton where the celebrities stay, did a walking tour of the city, and had a great lunch in the tiniest cafe. From there we went on to Antibes to see the Picasso Museum. It is housed in a stunning ancient chateau right on the Mediterranean. Picasso used this spot as his studio in 1946 and fifty of his originals are on display here. By this time, the heat and the crowds had done us in (temperatures are in the mid-30's every day) and we returned to the cottage to cook our own dinner and relax on the patio.
We have been pleasantly surprised to find that prices are not exorbitant here as we had been told. While diesel costs more and there are highway tolls to pay, our car is getting 45 mpg. The cost of restaurant meals and groceries is roughly the same as at home. Our accommodation expenses vary depending on the location-- higher in the big cities, of course, but here we are only paying about $90 per night for this cottage. Clothing also seems to be roughly on par. There are lots of sales on right now, as merchandisers try to get rid of their summer stock, just as they will be doing in the Mayfair Mall. Did I mention the cost of le vin et le biere? Cheap, cheap, cheap! This surprise is encouraging and makes our dream of a return here sooner than later a distinct possibility.
We joined in with the tourists and took a photo of me walking down the red carpet from the Palais des Festivals where the Cannes Film Festival is held every year in May. We also found the Hotel Carlton where the celebrities stay, did a walking tour of the city, and had a great lunch in the tiniest cafe. From there we went on to Antibes to see the Picasso Museum. It is housed in a stunning ancient chateau right on the Mediterranean. Picasso used this spot as his studio in 1946 and fifty of his originals are on display here. By this time, the heat and the crowds had done us in (temperatures are in the mid-30's every day) and we returned to the cottage to cook our own dinner and relax on the patio.
We have been pleasantly surprised to find that prices are not exorbitant here as we had been told. While diesel costs more and there are highway tolls to pay, our car is getting 45 mpg. The cost of restaurant meals and groceries is roughly the same as at home. Our accommodation expenses vary depending on the location-- higher in the big cities, of course, but here we are only paying about $90 per night for this cottage. Clothing also seems to be roughly on par. There are lots of sales on right now, as merchandisers try to get rid of their summer stock, just as they will be doing in the Mayfair Mall. Did I mention the cost of le vin et le biere? Cheap, cheap, cheap! This surprise is encouraging and makes our dream of a return here sooner than later a distinct possibility.
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
The Cottage-- our home for this week
What I'll remember about this spot:
Driving along back roads for what seemed like forever and wondering what on earth I had reserved
Sleeping with the door wide open
Birds singing at first light
Donkey braying soon afterward
Rooster crowing after that
Breakfast on the patio
Bees in the lavender
Hanging laundry on the line near the garden of garlic, zucchini and tomatoes
Lounging by the pool and looking over the vineyard
Getting lost every time we tried to come home
Here are some pictures of it:
http://www.domaine-de-conillieres.com/english/index.php
Driving along back roads for what seemed like forever and wondering what on earth I had reserved
Sleeping with the door wide open
Birds singing at first light
Donkey braying soon afterward
Rooster crowing after that
Breakfast on the patio
Bees in the lavender
Hanging laundry on the line near the garden of garlic, zucchini and tomatoes
Lounging by the pool and looking over the vineyard
Getting lost every time we tried to come home
Here are some pictures of it:
http://www.domaine-de-conillieres.com/english/index.php
The Colours of Provence
I had read about how many artists came to paint in Provence, attracted by the luminous light and brilliant colours. I think this must be one of those things you have to see to believe. The colours here are so vivid: the sky is a uniform light blue, the vineyards are brilliantly green, and the soil has a reddish hue. Today we drove into Aix-en-Provence, about 45 minutes from our cottage. It was market day and the main square was filled with colours of all intensities--golden sunflowers, fresh green beans, tomatoes, les courges, peaches, strawberries, melons, every fruit or vegetable imaginable. Our French is getting a little better. We bought a fougasse, tomatoes, onions, garlic, zucchini, herbs des Provence, battered zucchini flowers, and half a poulet roti-- a rotisserie chicken. Can't wait for dinner!
My highlight of the day was visiting Cezanne's studio in Aix. He painted here until his death in 1906 and his studio has been left virtually unchanged. It was almost surreal to see and touch his supplies--his worn leather knapsack, umbrellas, smock, overcoat and hat, and most of all, the items from his most famous still life paintings--the wine bottle, pedestal plate (visualize fruit on top), even the table on which he placed these items. We also walked through the trails in his garden. It was easy to imagine him there and to see why he found this part of France so inspirational.
Wish I could post my pictures here, but the iPad won't let me. I have been posting our photos on my Facebook site. If you are interested, just send a request to be my Facebook "friend" and you will have access to my site.
My highlight of the day was visiting Cezanne's studio in Aix. He painted here until his death in 1906 and his studio has been left virtually unchanged. It was almost surreal to see and touch his supplies--his worn leather knapsack, umbrellas, smock, overcoat and hat, and most of all, the items from his most famous still life paintings--the wine bottle, pedestal plate (visualize fruit on top), even the table on which he placed these items. We also walked through the trails in his garden. It was easy to imagine him there and to see why he found this part of France so inspirational.
Wish I could post my pictures here, but the iPad won't let me. I have been posting our photos on my Facebook site. If you are interested, just send a request to be my Facebook "friend" and you will have access to my site.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Van Gogh, a bridge, and more great meals
Or Den says I should title this "Arles well that ends well".
Drove to Arles today, saw the Roman ruins --the amphitheater and the coliseum, and the Cafe la Nuit, the bright yellow cafe that is the subject of one of Van Gogh's most famous paintings. We also visited the hospital where they put him after he went ballistic on Paul Gaugin and ended up cutting of his own ear lobe (and apparently gave it to a prostitute--I wonder if he thought that was an appropriate payment).
Here I go talking about food again . . .we had yet another great lunch in an outdoor cafe--Mistral Salad today. Sunshine, fresh food, fine wine, an accordion player in the square serenading the locals while they enjoyed their daily 2 hour lunch. . .I could get used to living like this.
Next it was on to Avignon to see the bridge that is the subject of the nursery rhyme. Avignon is a university town. This month it is hosting a theatre festival, sort of like a Fringe Festival. The streets were jam-packed with performers advertising their plays and hawking tickets for tonight's performances. To put it mildly, it was a zoo, and not our scene at all, especially since it was 37 degrees. We walked all the way through town to the bridge, snapped a picture, abandoned our plan to see the Palace of the Popes (which I am sure is spectacular, but by this point in our day we simply did not care), and headed back to our cottage out here in the country.
It is so quiet here and so far away from anything that we sleep with the door wide open to let a breeze in. The cottage is equipped with everything we could possibly need. Philippe, the owner, obviously likes Ikea--lots of items here. Tonight we made ourselves a salad, and feasted on fresh olive bread, the creamiest Roquefort cheese, lemon olives and Stracciatella yogurt, on Trev's recommendation. A perfect end to the day.
Drove to Arles today, saw the Roman ruins --the amphitheater and the coliseum, and the Cafe la Nuit, the bright yellow cafe that is the subject of one of Van Gogh's most famous paintings. We also visited the hospital where they put him after he went ballistic on Paul Gaugin and ended up cutting of his own ear lobe (and apparently gave it to a prostitute--I wonder if he thought that was an appropriate payment).
Here I go talking about food again . . .we had yet another great lunch in an outdoor cafe--Mistral Salad today. Sunshine, fresh food, fine wine, an accordion player in the square serenading the locals while they enjoyed their daily 2 hour lunch. . .I could get used to living like this.
Next it was on to Avignon to see the bridge that is the subject of the nursery rhyme. Avignon is a university town. This month it is hosting a theatre festival, sort of like a Fringe Festival. The streets were jam-packed with performers advertising their plays and hawking tickets for tonight's performances. To put it mildly, it was a zoo, and not our scene at all, especially since it was 37 degrees. We walked all the way through town to the bridge, snapped a picture, abandoned our plan to see the Palace of the Popes (which I am sure is spectacular, but by this point in our day we simply did not care), and headed back to our cottage out here in the country.
It is so quiet here and so far away from anything that we sleep with the door wide open to let a breeze in. The cottage is equipped with everything we could possibly need. Philippe, the owner, obviously likes Ikea--lots of items here. Tonight we made ourselves a salad, and feasted on fresh olive bread, the creamiest Roquefort cheese, lemon olives and Stracciatella yogurt, on Trev's recommendation. A perfect end to the day.
Monday, July 12, 2010
The Mediterranean!
The best part of Den's day was coming over a hill and seeing the Mediterranean stretched out before us. It really is bluer than blue. We drove to Cassis on the southern coast near Marseille to see the Calanques, which are like fjords. We took a boat tour through three of them and the scenery was spectacular. Seeing all the vacationers swimming off their boats or lounging around on their decks having appies and drinks made us miss our summer boating at home. Hope we can fit in some Gulf Islands time when we return. We found a public beach and I jumped in--not as warm as the Indian Ocean, but lovely and refeeshing. Boating and swimming in the Mediterranean--there are two more things off my bucket list. We had dinner in Toulon in an outdoor cafe right on the promenade--HUGE pots of fresh moulds et frites, mussels and fries in a Gorgonzola sauce.
The French really know how to do things right. No wonder they are sometimes viewed as being arrogant--they know they are a step above others, We have not found a single thing to criticize. From a tourist's perspective, it's all good. The scenery is to die for--rolling green hills dotted with ancient villages and tidy vineyards. Roads are in excellent shape and most intersections are beautifully landscaped roundabouts. The food is fresh, interesting, and delicious and each region has iits specialties. There is a focus on meat, which makes it a little difficult for us, but we have always been able to find vegetarian or seafood choices on menus. Shopping makes sense. Every village has a market where you can buy fresh fruit and veggies, a boulangerie for your daily baguette, and a patisserie for sweets. So far we have steered clear of those. Even the supermarkets are more efficient than ours. You weigh and label your own produce. The people are good-looking and well turned out. No jeans and hoodies here. Did I mention the public washrooms? Open the door to a stainless steel interior, the seat lowers for you, Insert your hands into a compartment for soap, then water, then a dryer, push the button to open the door, exit, and the entire room is sprayed and sterilized for the next person. Love it. Wanna live here.
The French really know how to do things right. No wonder they are sometimes viewed as being arrogant--they know they are a step above others, We have not found a single thing to criticize. From a tourist's perspective, it's all good. The scenery is to die for--rolling green hills dotted with ancient villages and tidy vineyards. Roads are in excellent shape and most intersections are beautifully landscaped roundabouts. The food is fresh, interesting, and delicious and each region has iits specialties. There is a focus on meat, which makes it a little difficult for us, but we have always been able to find vegetarian or seafood choices on menus. Shopping makes sense. Every village has a market where you can buy fresh fruit and veggies, a boulangerie for your daily baguette, and a patisserie for sweets. So far we have steered clear of those. Even the supermarkets are more efficient than ours. You weigh and label your own produce. The people are good-looking and well turned out. No jeans and hoodies here. Did I mention the public washrooms? Open the door to a stainless steel interior, the seat lowers for you, Insert your hands into a compartment for soap, then water, then a dryer, push the button to open the door, exit, and the entire room is sprayed and sterilized for the next person. Love it. Wanna live here.
Three Heads of Lettuce
That is probably how I'll remember today. On our host, Phillippe's recommendation, we hiked into the nearest down to visit the tiny market they have there on Sundays. It sounded like such a great idea at the time--walking through the countryside of Provence to pick up fresh local goods. He failed to tell us about the hills . . . And we failed to think about the heat wave here. We did find the market and with our very limited French bought some fruit and vegetables. However, we ended up with three heads of lettuce! After much gesturing and repetition, we finally came to understand that he was trying to tell me that 3 of his locally grown organic heads of lettuce were a much better deal than the one to which I had pointed. To end this "conversation" I agreed to buy his bargain. While the long walk home was pretty uncomfortable in this heat, it did give us the chance to really view this back country area--thyme and lavender grow wild on the roadsides here. It is an area of small vineyards and olive groves.
Other than our long hike, today was a day of rest. I did a couple of loads of laundry which dried on the clothesline In 30 minutes. We swam and lounged and napped by the pool most of the day . . . And had lots of fresh lettuce for dinner.
Other than our long hike, today was a day of rest. I did a couple of loads of laundry which dried on the clothesline In 30 minutes. We swam and lounged and napped by the pool most of the day . . . And had lots of fresh lettuce for dinner.
Saturday, July 10, 2010
A Day of Contrasts
July 10
Den reminded me at breakfast that it was 4 years ago today that I was diagnosed. We talked about how our lives changed then, and about the uncertainty of a long life. His advice? Fill up the life you have.
And we are. Today was one of extreme contrasts. It began in Lyon, the third largest city in France, after Paris and Marseille. We took the funicular (tram) up the hill above old Lyon to see the Basilica. It was one of those things we thought we should see, since we were here, but Catholic houses of worship are not high on Den's list of must-do's. However, we were sure glad we did. It was the most impressive structure imaginable. It took 200 years to build and the interior is entirely decorated in tiny mosaics, all in tribute to Mary. Extremely interesting, both from a historic and architectural point of view. We stopped off at the Saturday market to watch the locals in action and bought a loaf of pain complet.
Our GPS was not in our good books today--but I believe our troubles had more to do with the directions we were give than the technology. We had to tell her to shut up a few times. After a lot of driving, mostly in the wrong direction, we arrived here at this little out-of-the-way spot deep in the heart of Provence. We have an apartment here on a vineyard for a week. It is way out in the country, at the end of a dirt road.I think we are going to like it. It has a nice pool, lounge chairs, everything we could possible need to cook our own meals, and a resident cat. Den got directions to get to a local market in the morning, a half hour walk through the countryside to the nearest village, and a chance to stock up on bread, goat cheese, and local produce.
So--definitely a day of contrasts-- from the urban morning rush in Lyon to an evening listening to the insects in the trees. By the way, Andrea, what are those buzzing things?
Den reminded me at breakfast that it was 4 years ago today that I was diagnosed. We talked about how our lives changed then, and about the uncertainty of a long life. His advice? Fill up the life you have.
And we are. Today was one of extreme contrasts. It began in Lyon, the third largest city in France, after Paris and Marseille. We took the funicular (tram) up the hill above old Lyon to see the Basilica. It was one of those things we thought we should see, since we were here, but Catholic houses of worship are not high on Den's list of must-do's. However, we were sure glad we did. It was the most impressive structure imaginable. It took 200 years to build and the interior is entirely decorated in tiny mosaics, all in tribute to Mary. Extremely interesting, both from a historic and architectural point of view. We stopped off at the Saturday market to watch the locals in action and bought a loaf of pain complet.
Our GPS was not in our good books today--but I believe our troubles had more to do with the directions we were give than the technology. We had to tell her to shut up a few times. After a lot of driving, mostly in the wrong direction, we arrived here at this little out-of-the-way spot deep in the heart of Provence. We have an apartment here on a vineyard for a week. It is way out in the country, at the end of a dirt road.I think we are going to like it. It has a nice pool, lounge chairs, everything we could possible need to cook our own meals, and a resident cat. Den got directions to get to a local market in the morning, a half hour walk through the countryside to the nearest village, and a chance to stock up on bread, goat cheese, and local produce.
So--definitely a day of contrasts-- from the urban morning rush in Lyon to an evening listening to the insects in the trees. By the way, Andrea, what are those buzzing things?
Friday, July 9, 2010
Beaune to Lyon
Left the Hotel Alesia after yet another great breakfast. Why do I think about food so much? We took the backroads all the way through wine country--a beautiful route through vineyard after vineyard. each little village seems to have its own chateau and une eglise. Best memory was of zooming along country roads and passing through narrow cobblestone streets of medieval villages. stopped in a few of them and viewed the monastery in Cluny where we also bought some wine, crackers and olive tapenade. Tom and Linda: Mrs. christopherson would be so proud of us! We are shocked at how much of our high school French we actually remember and can use. We arrived here in Lyon, the good old GPS brought us right to the hotel parking lot which we recognized because we had already viewed it on google street view at home. Paid more for this hotel but boy, was it worth it! Old historic place, big room by European standards, overlooking the theatre which is all lit up now at night. One highlight today was finding a Traboules, a serpentine like passageway that links the city streets. They are like hidden pathways that hide courtyards and entrances to apartments, etc. Apparently they were designed to shelter silk, a major industry here historically, when it was being moved from stage to stage, but they also helped the Resistance fighters confuse the Nazis during WW2. Den is more adventurous than I am when it comes to stuff like this, or maybe it is because he has watched so many war movies, but he found one of the old doors, opened it, said, C'mon and led me down this long passageway. Wow-- it ended up in a little courtyard with spiral staircases leading up several stories and a staircase leading down to a cellar. great place to let your imagination run wild and picture soldiers outsmarting the Nazis. . . Had dinner in an outdoor cafe and walked around the city at night. This is an amazing country. We haven't found a single thing to complain about. Everyone is helpful, goes out of their way to help with English--even the public toilets put ours to shame. Loving every minute of every day.
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Day 4 Colmar to Beaune
Another day of clear sunny skies and warm temperatures--up to 33 degrees today. Set out after another fabulous breakfast beside the pool and headed to another little village on the Route du Vin called Eguisheim--very picturesque. Bought bread and kiwi in the market for lunch and headed towards Beaune in the heart of the Burgundy region. Toured the Hotel Dieu, a hospital built in the 1400's and still used until the 1980's! Next we toured an incredible wine cellar (Jim you would love this!) It was an underground labyrinth stocked with countless thousands of bottles. We were able to sample 13 of them. Found our hotel--very cute--then had a very French dinner, complete with creme brûlée. No such thing as low fat on that menu!
I'm having trouble figuring out how to get photos on this blog with the iPad but will figure it out soon I hope. We are on to Lyon tomorrow after touring a few vineyards and wineries on the way. Au revoir!
I'm having trouble figuring out how to get photos on this blog with the iPad but will figure it out soon I hope. We are on to Lyon tomorrow after touring a few vineyards and wineries on the way. Au revoir!
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Ready to go
We are packed, ready to go, and feeling the same excitement we did the last time I sewed Canadian flags on backpacks--when we were 20 years old. Follow us on this blog and leave your comments so we can talk to you!
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Two weeks tomorrow!
We leave two weeks tomorrow. Shopping is done, clothes ready, now we just have to pack it all up. It's hard to answer Den's question: "What are you looking forward to the most?" I have so many images in my mind, some from the videos we've watched, books we've read, websites we've visited, and others from memories of our previous trip. Cobblestones . . . open markets. . . outdoor restaurants . . . castles . . . sunshine . . . and the Mediterranean. We've entered our accommodations into our GPS, bought apps for the iPad, and purchased every travel size toiletry I can think of. This trip has been a long time in the making!
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