Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Our day began with a half-decent breakfast around the table chatting with a couple from Australia over one too many cups of rich Italian coffee. We headed up the hill to Orvieto, found the heavily frescoed Duomo and purchased tickets for an underground tour of the caverns. Every third step one takes here is above one of 1200 caves or caverns dating from Etruscan and medieval times that honeycomb this city. We saw the remains of an old olive press where blindfolded donkeys walked in circles turning a heavy stone wheel, deep Etruscan well shafts, quarries, and most interesting to us, rooms of rows of small square cubicles carved into the soft rock where pigeons were raised for their eggs, their meat, and for sale. Now we truly understand the term "pigeon-holed".
Assisi was our next destination. While we did arrive at the agritourismo where we were headed, (www.incampagna.com) I think we covered a lot more kilometres than we needed to. We need a more detailed map than the one we have. Once again, it was one of those "Whatever have I done?" moments as we drove further and further, higher and higher along narrow country roads in the hills above Assisi. Ruurd, our Dutch host, was here to greet us and show us around his home, parts of which date from the 1500's! The vistas from this house are amazing. We sat under the pergola watching a shepherd with his flock and his dogs in the field below. From our room's window, we can see for miles over Assisi and a wide expanse of valley. Right now, at dusk, we can hear frogs croaking, see the twinkling lights of the city below, and smell the freshness of the air after this afternoon's rain. The Basilica of St. Francis is fully lit and it looks as if it's glowing. Peace. When I asked Ruurd this afternoon what made he and Letizia choose to live here, he just smiled, waved his hand over the view and said exactly that. Peace.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
The Hill Towns of Tuscany and Civita di Bagnoregio
July 26, 2010
The Hill Towns of Tuscany and Sunset at Civita di Bagnoregio
After our farmhouse breakfast, we, that is, Elaine, decided that we needed to sit in an outdoor cafe in the main square of Siena and people-watch for awhile. I had a mocchaccino that I have to admit I thoroughly enjoyed. Touring the Duomo, with Rick Steves in hand, was worth every cent of the admission charge. The Italian architecture is quite different from the French and it reminded us of the Duomo in Florence that we saw 36 years ago and will see again in a few days.
We headed south along the back roads to tour the hill towns of Tuscany. Without exaggeration, I probably took 50 pictures of landscapes along the way. The road had several pull- out spots where others had obviously felt compelled to do the same. Rolling hills, patchwork-quilt fields of wheat, grapevines, sunflowers, and olive groves punctuated by rows of cypress trees lining the skyline provided one OMG after another.
First stop: Montalcino, famous for Brunella of Montalcino vino rosso. We wandered through this village, set high on a hilltop with a commanding view of the countryside and had a focaccia panini in a little enoteca, complete with a glass of lovely red before heading to the next stop: Montepulciano, whose red wine we had previously sampled at home.
Then we headed further south to Orvieto, our destination for the night. I always feel a little nervous just before arriving at our accommodation. Did I pick a good one? Is it going to be a dive? So far we have had fabulous rooms every single night. And this one is no exception. Situated right smack at the base of the escarpment of the walled city of Orvieto, it is a B&B tucked in an olive grove with a colourful garden and a pergola draped in lush grapevines. Our room is scrupulously clean and can only be described as cute. It has a fresh white coverlet on the (unusually) comfortable bed, country style furnishings, decals of cats at the base of the walls, a colourful wooden parrot on a perch over the bed and a large bathroom. We have a wrought iron table and chairs set on a stone patio surrounded by flowers and hand-painted stones.
We were anxious to see the nearby town of Civita di Bagnoregio, which, according to Rick Steves, is Italy's ultimate hill town (www.civitadibagnoregio.it). It dates from Etruscan and ancient Roman times and has a distinctly medieval feel to it. Perched on a hill of soft rock that has eroded over time, it is connected to the rest of the world by a
pedestrian bridge. We read that only fourteen people, all elderly, still live here but it appeared to us that there were several recently renovated (and likely very pricey) apartments. Wandering through this ancient town as the sun was setting and imagining day- to- day life in medieval times was a memory we will hold on to.
Also not to be forgotten was my moment of panic a few hours later in Orvieto. After dining in a trattoria on a cobblestone street, we went to find the access to our car in the parking lot. Locked. Closed at 21:00. It's 21:30. Our car is about four levels underground in this city of caverns and we have no idea whatsoever how to get down to it. It's dark. The flashlight that we were given at the B&B is, you guessed it, in the car. Good thing Italians are friendly and helpful. A desk clerk from a nearby hotel helped us out and we were on our way "home".
Enough experiences for this girl for one day.
The Hill Towns of Tuscany and Sunset at Civita di Bagnoregio
After our farmhouse breakfast, we, that is, Elaine, decided that we needed to sit in an outdoor cafe in the main square of Siena and people-watch for awhile. I had a mocchaccino that I have to admit I thoroughly enjoyed. Touring the Duomo, with Rick Steves in hand, was worth every cent of the admission charge. The Italian architecture is quite different from the French and it reminded us of the Duomo in Florence that we saw 36 years ago and will see again in a few days.
We headed south along the back roads to tour the hill towns of Tuscany. Without exaggeration, I probably took 50 pictures of landscapes along the way. The road had several pull- out spots where others had obviously felt compelled to do the same. Rolling hills, patchwork-quilt fields of wheat, grapevines, sunflowers, and olive groves punctuated by rows of cypress trees lining the skyline provided one OMG after another.
First stop: Montalcino, famous for Brunella of Montalcino vino rosso. We wandered through this village, set high on a hilltop with a commanding view of the countryside and had a focaccia panini in a little enoteca, complete with a glass of lovely red before heading to the next stop: Montepulciano, whose red wine we had previously sampled at home.
Then we headed further south to Orvieto, our destination for the night. I always feel a little nervous just before arriving at our accommodation. Did I pick a good one? Is it going to be a dive? So far we have had fabulous rooms every single night. And this one is no exception. Situated right smack at the base of the escarpment of the walled city of Orvieto, it is a B&B tucked in an olive grove with a colourful garden and a pergola draped in lush grapevines. Our room is scrupulously clean and can only be described as cute. It has a fresh white coverlet on the (unusually) comfortable bed, country style furnishings, decals of cats at the base of the walls, a colourful wooden parrot on a perch over the bed and a large bathroom. We have a wrought iron table and chairs set on a stone patio surrounded by flowers and hand-painted stones.
We were anxious to see the nearby town of Civita di Bagnoregio, which, according to Rick Steves, is Italy's ultimate hill town (www.civitadibagnoregio.it). It dates from Etruscan and ancient Roman times and has a distinctly medieval feel to it. Perched on a hill of soft rock that has eroded over time, it is connected to the rest of the world by a
pedestrian bridge. We read that only fourteen people, all elderly, still live here but it appeared to us that there were several recently renovated (and likely very pricey) apartments. Wandering through this ancient town as the sun was setting and imagining day- to- day life in medieval times was a memory we will hold on to.
Also not to be forgotten was my moment of panic a few hours later in Orvieto. After dining in a trattoria on a cobblestone street, we went to find the access to our car in the parking lot. Locked. Closed at 21:00. It's 21:30. Our car is about four levels underground in this city of caverns and we have no idea whatsoever how to get down to it. It's dark. The flashlight that we were given at the B&B is, you guessed it, in the car. Good thing Italians are friendly and helpful. A desk clerk from a nearby hotel helped us out and we were on our way "home".
Enough experiences for this girl for one day.
Sunday, July 25, 2010
Living my Dream!
What woman hasn't dreamed of sleeping in a Tuscan farmhouse overlooking patchwork fields and vineyards? This agritourismo is everything I had hoped it would be. Last night we slept with the little window wide open and a full moon shining on the surrounding hills. Our room has a stone floor and wood ceiling beams, a wrought iron bed with a white crocheted spread. Beautiful. We have just finished breakfast in the farmhouse kitchen--big long wooden table around which all the guests gather--coffee, banana milkshake, granola, fruit, yogurt, hoemade cake, homemade bread, jams, jellies --you get the picture. Off to explore Siena and head south today.
Lost in Lucca, Peeked at Pisa, and Sleeping in Siena OR Under the Tuscan Sun
July 25, 2010
Happy 92nd Birthday, Mom
Now THIS is what I came to Italy for! We are here at Agritourismo Marciano, in the hills just outside Siena.
Highlights of our day:
Hearing the Sicilian pastry chef trying to entice us to try one of his fresh pastries with our cappuccinos this morning as we waited for the shuttle bus to take us from Vernazza up to our car. We relented. I chose a nutella twist. It literally melted in our mouths.
Surviving the narrow twisting road through the hillsides above the Cinque Terre to the highway. It was Sunday and luckily there were few cars on the road.
Getting lost in the walled city of Lucca and not caring if we saw the city's landmarks.
Leaving the leaning tower of Pisa without posing as if we were holding it up.
Having a fabulous lunch in San Gimignano in a piazza with a 13th century well. Walking to the top of the town to see the amazing view of the Tuscan countryside.
Feeling grateful for Rick and Karen. Not the Melsons. Rick Steves who guides us through each town, tells us interesting facts and leads us to great restaurants and places to stay, and Karen, our GPS, who sometimes has to put up with our abuse when we yell at her or call her an idiot, but who usually gets us where we need to be.
Feeling very grateful that Denis can figure out where we are and how to get back to where we need to be. Uncanny actually.
Walking into Il Campo, the main piazza in Siena for the first time. Having a rustic soup in a little restaurant. Watching the flag bearers perform in the piazza. Seeing the light on the buildings as the sun was setting. Coming back here to see the full moon over the vineyards. Looking forward to having breakfast here in the morning and sipping coffee in Siena later on.
Life is good, or as Den remarked, "That wraps up another full day."
Happy 92nd Birthday, Mom
Now THIS is what I came to Italy for! We are here at Agritourismo Marciano, in the hills just outside Siena.
Highlights of our day:
Hearing the Sicilian pastry chef trying to entice us to try one of his fresh pastries with our cappuccinos this morning as we waited for the shuttle bus to take us from Vernazza up to our car. We relented. I chose a nutella twist. It literally melted in our mouths.
Surviving the narrow twisting road through the hillsides above the Cinque Terre to the highway. It was Sunday and luckily there were few cars on the road.
Getting lost in the walled city of Lucca and not caring if we saw the city's landmarks.
Leaving the leaning tower of Pisa without posing as if we were holding it up.
Having a fabulous lunch in San Gimignano in a piazza with a 13th century well. Walking to the top of the town to see the amazing view of the Tuscan countryside.
Feeling grateful for Rick and Karen. Not the Melsons. Rick Steves who guides us through each town, tells us interesting facts and leads us to great restaurants and places to stay, and Karen, our GPS, who sometimes has to put up with our abuse when we yell at her or call her an idiot, but who usually gets us where we need to be.
Feeling very grateful that Denis can figure out where we are and how to get back to where we need to be. Uncanny actually.
Walking into Il Campo, the main piazza in Siena for the first time. Having a rustic soup in a little restaurant. Watching the flag bearers perform in the piazza. Seeing the light on the buildings as the sun was setting. Coming back here to see the full moon over the vineyards. Looking forward to having breakfast here in the morning and sipping coffee in Siena later on.
Life is good, or as Den remarked, "That wraps up another full day."
the Lazy Life of Vernazza and the Soup Nazi
July 24, 2010
Happy 6th Anniversary, Andrea and Trevor!
Today we experienced the "vita pigra de Vernazza"--the lazy life of Vernazza. We decided to stay here and explore this little town.
Vernazza's main street is a series of small shops: enotecas, pizzarias, gelaterias, focaccerias, a bakery, a couple of small grocery stores and a lot of small cafes, bars, and restaurants. The main activity seems to be passeggiata, walking slowly along, watching the passers-by. We climbed a lot of stairs to visit the castle and the tower where medieval villagers kept an eye out for pirates and we hiked up to the church. Big waves in the harbour meant that parts of the swimming area were roped off and we found the swarms of tourists particularly annoying, so we picked up some grapes, focaccia crackers, and local wine and headed back up to our retreat on the hillside. I discovered that the hammock slung between the lemon trees and the grapevines was a lovely spot to enjoy the sunshine, the view, and my book.
Giuliano told us that four nights is best here to really get the feel for Vernazza, and he may be right. We have become more relaxed as the days have passed, and our initial annoyance at the high priced lunch on our first day here is long gone. At the same time, we are looking forward to moving on and discovering more of Italy.
Best moments of the day:
Denis calling the grumpy pizza man the Soup Nazi.
Relaxing in the hammock and hearing the breeze rustling through the lemon trees and the grapevines.
Happy 6th Anniversary, Andrea and Trevor!
Today we experienced the "vita pigra de Vernazza"--the lazy life of Vernazza. We decided to stay here and explore this little town.
Vernazza's main street is a series of small shops: enotecas, pizzarias, gelaterias, focaccerias, a bakery, a couple of small grocery stores and a lot of small cafes, bars, and restaurants. The main activity seems to be passeggiata, walking slowly along, watching the passers-by. We climbed a lot of stairs to visit the castle and the tower where medieval villagers kept an eye out for pirates and we hiked up to the church. Big waves in the harbour meant that parts of the swimming area were roped off and we found the swarms of tourists particularly annoying, so we picked up some grapes, focaccia crackers, and local wine and headed back up to our retreat on the hillside. I discovered that the hammock slung between the lemon trees and the grapevines was a lovely spot to enjoy the sunshine, the view, and my book.
Giuliano told us that four nights is best here to really get the feel for Vernazza, and he may be right. We have become more relaxed as the days have passed, and our initial annoyance at the high priced lunch on our first day here is long gone. At the same time, we are looking forward to moving on and discovering more of Italy.
Best moments of the day:
Denis calling the grumpy pizza man the Soup Nazi.
Relaxing in the hammock and hearing the breeze rustling through the lemon trees and the grapevines.
First day in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre
Levanto to Vernazza
Left the Garden Hotel in Levanto mid morning to drive the short distance to Vernazza, one of the towns on the Cinque Terre. The road here was very narrow, mostly single lane, and twisty with hairpin turns, steep cliffs and breathtaking views of tiny villages and the ocean below. As the Cinque Terre is a national park, it is off limits to cars. We parked in the lot above Vernazza and were shuttled down by bus to the village. Here we easily followed our email directions to ask for Guiliano in the first enoteca (wine bar) on the left. He happened to be right outside on the street and took us up to our camere, our room for the next three nights.
He has built four rooms on the side of the mountain. It is hard to describe. Three are joined and share patio areas, in and amongst his gardens. We have access to a shared kitchen where we have our own shelf in the frig, coffee and tea, dishes, and beach towels. We are above the town and have a view of the town and the harbour.
The town clock chimes every half hour and the train whizzes through every 20 minutes or so.
We strolled through the town, which is really just one street and then chose a restaurant for lunch on the main square, for the first time without looking at the menu before sitting down. Big mistake. We ended up paying 45 euros for a caprese salad, some cheese croquettes, a small seafood salad, one beer, and water. We were charged 6 euros for the basket of bread that was plopped down on our table with the beverages--we have never been charged for bread before in either Italy or France. Feeling ripped off was not a good way to start our visit here. We spent the afternoon on the breakwater in the sunshine, swimming in the deep water to cool off. We found a grocery store, bought supplies for breakfast, ordered a pizza and had dinner on our patio. Much cheaper.
The Cinque Terre was one of our destinations that we were most excited about. I felt really fortunate to have been able to reserve this spot--the #1 rated accommodation on tripadvisor in the "jewel" of these five towns, according to Rick Steves. The town is a photographer's dream. The buildings are all soft colours, mostly peach or yellow with green shutters and they tumble down the cliff toward the sea. Laundry hangs from windows. The hills around the town are terraced for small gardens and tiny vineyards. The town clock dominates the scene but there is evidence of ancient stone remains all over. However, it is absolutely crawling with tourists. The streets are jam-packed and the prices are high. We had expected a quiet little out-of-the-way spot where we could relax, hike, swim, and enjoy the small villages. Not so. We are feeling quite disappointed. Perhaps it is just the heat that is getting to us. We have been in this heat wave since arriving in Europe. A cool rainy day would be a nice change right now!
We have planned our itinerary for tomorrow. I have a massage appointment early in the morning after which we are going to see all five villages by either boat, trail, or train.
Left the Garden Hotel in Levanto mid morning to drive the short distance to Vernazza, one of the towns on the Cinque Terre. The road here was very narrow, mostly single lane, and twisty with hairpin turns, steep cliffs and breathtaking views of tiny villages and the ocean below. As the Cinque Terre is a national park, it is off limits to cars. We parked in the lot above Vernazza and were shuttled down by bus to the village. Here we easily followed our email directions to ask for Guiliano in the first enoteca (wine bar) on the left. He happened to be right outside on the street and took us up to our camere, our room for the next three nights.
He has built four rooms on the side of the mountain. It is hard to describe. Three are joined and share patio areas, in and amongst his gardens. We have access to a shared kitchen where we have our own shelf in the frig, coffee and tea, dishes, and beach towels. We are above the town and have a view of the town and the harbour.
The town clock chimes every half hour and the train whizzes through every 20 minutes or so.
We strolled through the town, which is really just one street and then chose a restaurant for lunch on the main square, for the first time without looking at the menu before sitting down. Big mistake. We ended up paying 45 euros for a caprese salad, some cheese croquettes, a small seafood salad, one beer, and water. We were charged 6 euros for the basket of bread that was plopped down on our table with the beverages--we have never been charged for bread before in either Italy or France. Feeling ripped off was not a good way to start our visit here. We spent the afternoon on the breakwater in the sunshine, swimming in the deep water to cool off. We found a grocery store, bought supplies for breakfast, ordered a pizza and had dinner on our patio. Much cheaper.
The Cinque Terre was one of our destinations that we were most excited about. I felt really fortunate to have been able to reserve this spot--the #1 rated accommodation on tripadvisor in the "jewel" of these five towns, according to Rick Steves. The town is a photographer's dream. The buildings are all soft colours, mostly peach or yellow with green shutters and they tumble down the cliff toward the sea. Laundry hangs from windows. The hills around the town are terraced for small gardens and tiny vineyards. The town clock dominates the scene but there is evidence of ancient stone remains all over. However, it is absolutely crawling with tourists. The streets are jam-packed and the prices are high. We had expected a quiet little out-of-the-way spot where we could relax, hike, swim, and enjoy the small villages. Not so. We are feeling quite disappointed. Perhaps it is just the heat that is getting to us. We have been in this heat wave since arriving in Europe. A cool rainy day would be a nice change right now!
We have planned our itinerary for tomorrow. I have a massage appointment early in the morning after which we are going to see all five villages by either boat, trail, or train.
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Pizza by the Pound and Skinny French Women
Levanto. On the north west coast of Italy.
We can certainly see why Andrea and Trevor loved this little town when they were here four years ago. It is a charming mix of the old and the new. We arrived about 2 p.m. after feeling like moles on the autostrada. We passed through more than a hundred tunnels on the way here, blinking in the light as we exited each one.
Already we have hiked through the Old Town, bought pizza and focaccia by weight, gone for a swim at the beach, wandered through the shops, and had appies and dinner in a little outdoor enoteca, or wine bar. Tomorrow is market day here, so we will be shopping for locally made pesto to bring home in our suitcases.
We've had the opportunity to do lots of people-watching on this trip, and now that we've been in two countries, I just have to comment on the women! The French women are gorgeous. They are all thin. They dress for lunch like I would dress for a wedding or for New Year's Eve. No exaggeration. I remember sitting next to a mom who was taking her young son out for lunch. She was wearing a black frilly georgette dress. I cannot comprehend how they walk on cobblestone streets in the heels they wear. They all sport an expensive bag that matches their outfit and they wear lots of bling. Clothing that we might consider risque looks feminine on them. Even the older women are slim and well turned out and perfectly accessorized. Everyone wears dresses. It is rare to see jeans. And yet, they sit in cafes and eat buttery croissants for breakfast, have 2 hour multi-course lunches complete with wine, and dinner is another major event of the day. The only joggers I have seen were on the street early in the morning in Nice and judging by their clothing, they looked like North American tourists. Go figure. Italian women, on the other hand, don't seem to follow suit. They all seem to be quite comfortable in their own skin, if their choice of bathing suits is any indication. No worrying about a little muffin top here! However, the sad part of this observation is that they all seem to smoke. We had read that smoking was banned in public places in France, but we have yet to discover where those public places might be!
We can certainly see why Andrea and Trevor loved this little town when they were here four years ago. It is a charming mix of the old and the new. We arrived about 2 p.m. after feeling like moles on the autostrada. We passed through more than a hundred tunnels on the way here, blinking in the light as we exited each one.
Already we have hiked through the Old Town, bought pizza and focaccia by weight, gone for a swim at the beach, wandered through the shops, and had appies and dinner in a little outdoor enoteca, or wine bar. Tomorrow is market day here, so we will be shopping for locally made pesto to bring home in our suitcases.
We've had the opportunity to do lots of people-watching on this trip, and now that we've been in two countries, I just have to comment on the women! The French women are gorgeous. They are all thin. They dress for lunch like I would dress for a wedding or for New Year's Eve. No exaggeration. I remember sitting next to a mom who was taking her young son out for lunch. She was wearing a black frilly georgette dress. I cannot comprehend how they walk on cobblestone streets in the heels they wear. They all sport an expensive bag that matches their outfit and they wear lots of bling. Clothing that we might consider risque looks feminine on them. Even the older women are slim and well turned out and perfectly accessorized. Everyone wears dresses. It is rare to see jeans. And yet, they sit in cafes and eat buttery croissants for breakfast, have 2 hour multi-course lunches complete with wine, and dinner is another major event of the day. The only joggers I have seen were on the street early in the morning in Nice and judging by their clothing, they looked like North American tourists. Go figure. Italian women, on the other hand, don't seem to follow suit. They all seem to be quite comfortable in their own skin, if their choice of bathing suits is any indication. No worrying about a little muffin top here! However, the sad part of this observation is that they all seem to smoke. We had read that smoking was banned in public places in France, but we have yet to discover where those public places might be!
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