August 6, 2010
Today we drove from Trieste, past Venice and Verona, then straight north to Bolzano. The landscape changed almost immediately as we entered a mountain pass through the Dolomite region. This area is stunningly beautiful--tiny villages nestled into the mountains, green velvet meadows, tidy terraced vineyards--and we began to see the Tyrol influence in Bavarian style houses with geranium flower boxes.
We had a heck of a time trying to find our hotel. The GPS doesn't always recognize that some streets are one-way and that others are pedestrian-only . . . and there are a lot of both in Bolzano! We were totally frustrated trying to find a place to park, and finally left the car in a handicapped zone outside a church. We found our hotel on foot, followed the hotelier's directions for where to park, and settled in. This is yet another great hotel. We have a big room, complete with a sitting area, a huge bathroom, and we are one of two rooms on the top floor. We're calling it the penthouse.
We had a fascinating afternoon in the Ice Man Archaeological Museum. It is the home of Otzi, a 5000 year old man whose frozen and preserved body was found in a nearby mountain area by hikers in 1991. Even his clothes were well preserved. Scientists have been able to determine his age, his health conditions (he had arthritis), his recent injury (he had been shot with an arrowhead), and even his last meal (by examining the contents of his stomach). The museum had fabulous displays of local Copper, Bronze, Iron Age, and Roman artifacts.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Friday, August 6, 2010
Bella Italia---it's good to be back
August 5, 2010
Bella Italia -- It's Good to be Back!
The Italians know how to do things right.
Love our hotel. Cute. Comfy. Clean. Breakfast included.
Downtown for an aperitif. An order of a beer and a glass of wine comes on a silver tray with olives, cocktail sandwiches, nuts, and two kinds of chips. No extra charge. Also no extra charge for the decor--ornate ceilings and rich wood detail. Lace cloth. Good conversation. We agree that we don't tire of talking to each other.
Walk in the rain past Renaissance architecture and a Roman amphitheatre. Leather boots in store windows. Italian leather. Fall fashions. Nubby sweaters and narrow pants. Italian fashions. Bellissimo.
Doesn't even matter that it's still raining. Bella Italia. Good to be back.
Bella Italia -- It's Good to be Back!
The Italians know how to do things right.
Love our hotel. Cute. Comfy. Clean. Breakfast included.
Downtown for an aperitif. An order of a beer and a glass of wine comes on a silver tray with olives, cocktail sandwiches, nuts, and two kinds of chips. No extra charge. Also no extra charge for the decor--ornate ceilings and rich wood detail. Lace cloth. Good conversation. We agree that we don't tire of talking to each other.
Walk in the rain past Renaissance architecture and a Roman amphitheatre. Leather boots in store windows. Italian leather. Fall fashions. Nubby sweaters and narrow pants. Italian fashions. Bellissimo.
Doesn't even matter that it's still raining. Bella Italia. Good to be back.
Split . . .before we split
August 4, 2010
Split . . . before we split!
Diocletian's Palace. The largest and best preserved Roman ruins in Europe. And we got to see it.
The ferry ride from Slatine to Split was only 17 kunas each (about $3.50) and was a beautiful trip in calm water. The old town area of Split is divided into two parts, Diocletian's Palace dating from Roman times and the adjacent market area that spilled out of the palace during the medieval period. The palace is huge, about 600 feet on each side and was built right on the shoreline in a protected harbour with a fabulous view of the Adriatic, a fitting home for a self-indulgent tyrannical Roman ruler. We were able to tour the inside and see the different chambers. Most interesting to me was the fact that archaeological work is still ongoing. In the ceiling of one main hall were large holes that had been gouged out of the stone floor. These were apparently created by the residents who lived on the upper floor. They dropped all of their waste down the holes into the room below. Over the years the smelly garbage dump solidified and became an archaeologist's dream and a major source of historical artifacts. Some of these deposits are still waiting to be excavated. It boggles the mind to imagine how a structure such as this was built that long ago, all of huge heavy stone. Mind you, 2000 slaves died during its construction. No safety standards or WCB here.
The adjacent Renaissance cathedral and other buildings were just as interesting, as they were built right on the Roman structures. The contrast of old and new was very apparent in Split. A modern bank has incorporated an existing Roman column and floor into its design.
What struck me the most here was this region's troubled history, from the very earliest times. In the 7th century, it was under attack by Slavs, in later centuries by the Turks, the Venetians, the French, and of course, the last decade saw the war with Serbia. Other than the natural scenic beauty of the Dalmatian Coast, it seems an unlikely place over which to fight. The environment is harsh--rocky soil, scrubby vegetation, and seemingly little choice agricultural land, at least in the part we have seen. To our ears, even the language sounds harsh, compared to the smooth French and the dramatic Italian. You have to admire people who have persisted to make this land their home. I have found myself looking at women my age and wondering what horrors they experienced during the war. Is that pile of rubble in their yard the remains of their former house? Did they lose their home? Did they lose a child?
Split . . . before we split!
Diocletian's Palace. The largest and best preserved Roman ruins in Europe. And we got to see it.
The ferry ride from Slatine to Split was only 17 kunas each (about $3.50) and was a beautiful trip in calm water. The old town area of Split is divided into two parts, Diocletian's Palace dating from Roman times and the adjacent market area that spilled out of the palace during the medieval period. The palace is huge, about 600 feet on each side and was built right on the shoreline in a protected harbour with a fabulous view of the Adriatic, a fitting home for a self-indulgent tyrannical Roman ruler. We were able to tour the inside and see the different chambers. Most interesting to me was the fact that archaeological work is still ongoing. In the ceiling of one main hall were large holes that had been gouged out of the stone floor. These were apparently created by the residents who lived on the upper floor. They dropped all of their waste down the holes into the room below. Over the years the smelly garbage dump solidified and became an archaeologist's dream and a major source of historical artifacts. Some of these deposits are still waiting to be excavated. It boggles the mind to imagine how a structure such as this was built that long ago, all of huge heavy stone. Mind you, 2000 slaves died during its construction. No safety standards or WCB here.
The adjacent Renaissance cathedral and other buildings were just as interesting, as they were built right on the Roman structures. The contrast of old and new was very apparent in Split. A modern bank has incorporated an existing Roman column and floor into its design.
What struck me the most here was this region's troubled history, from the very earliest times. In the 7th century, it was under attack by Slavs, in later centuries by the Turks, the Venetians, the French, and of course, the last decade saw the war with Serbia. Other than the natural scenic beauty of the Dalmatian Coast, it seems an unlikely place over which to fight. The environment is harsh--rocky soil, scrubby vegetation, and seemingly little choice agricultural land, at least in the part we have seen. To our ears, even the language sounds harsh, compared to the smooth French and the dramatic Italian. You have to admire people who have persisted to make this land their home. I have found myself looking at women my age and wondering what horrors they experienced during the war. Is that pile of rubble in their yard the remains of their former house? Did they lose their home? Did they lose a child?
Krka National Park and Travel Planning
August 3, 2010
Up early to beat the traffic into Togir (we have been told it is jammed from 7:30 to 11:00 a.m.) We took the coast road north through a series of small resort villages to Sibenik. The Dalmatian Coast has spectacular scenery: white houses with red roofs set against the backdrop of the blue Adriatic. Krka National Park was about an hour away. It encompasses the Krka River and large waterfalls formed from travertine. We hiked along the boardwalk trail but didn't swim in the falls. Much too slimey for me.
The area in which we are staying is popular with young Croatian or British families. It is just not for us. We are spoiled, I guess. The beaches here are all sharp rocks, so most people use air mattresses or floating toys to enjoy the water. Every square meter of the beach is packed with people sun-tanning (and smoking). The strip of beach is very narrow, so in many spots it seems as if people are just lying in the dirt at the edge of the walkway. Beach bars line the strip wherever there is room. It is crowded, noisy, busy, and hot. Most accommodation is in apartments which are in 6 to 8 suite apartment buildings jammed one on top of another on the hillsides leading to the sea. We have not been able to figure out any sort of logical pattern for the road system in this area. It seems more like a labyrinth and the roads are so narrow and windy that it is impossible to tell the difference between a roadway and a driveway. Okrug Gornji, the community here, is on the island of Ciovo which is connected to Trogir by a bridge. Trogir is about 30 km from Split. I should have looked into this in more depth before I booked it as it is quite a hassle to leave the area and much too far from Dubrovnik to make a day trip.
So . . . we made a mutual decision to leave three days early despite the fact that we have already paid for those nights. We found an internet shop in Trogir and started booking spots for the remainder of our vacation. We will take a boat to Split tomorrow, explore the town and then head back north on Thursday.
Up early to beat the traffic into Togir (we have been told it is jammed from 7:30 to 11:00 a.m.) We took the coast road north through a series of small resort villages to Sibenik. The Dalmatian Coast has spectacular scenery: white houses with red roofs set against the backdrop of the blue Adriatic. Krka National Park was about an hour away. It encompasses the Krka River and large waterfalls formed from travertine. We hiked along the boardwalk trail but didn't swim in the falls. Much too slimey for me.
The area in which we are staying is popular with young Croatian or British families. It is just not for us. We are spoiled, I guess. The beaches here are all sharp rocks, so most people use air mattresses or floating toys to enjoy the water. Every square meter of the beach is packed with people sun-tanning (and smoking). The strip of beach is very narrow, so in many spots it seems as if people are just lying in the dirt at the edge of the walkway. Beach bars line the strip wherever there is room. It is crowded, noisy, busy, and hot. Most accommodation is in apartments which are in 6 to 8 suite apartment buildings jammed one on top of another on the hillsides leading to the sea. We have not been able to figure out any sort of logical pattern for the road system in this area. It seems more like a labyrinth and the roads are so narrow and windy that it is impossible to tell the difference between a roadway and a driveway. Okrug Gornji, the community here, is on the island of Ciovo which is connected to Trogir by a bridge. Trogir is about 30 km from Split. I should have looked into this in more depth before I booked it as it is quite a hassle to leave the area and much too far from Dubrovnik to make a day trip.
So . . . we made a mutual decision to leave three days early despite the fact that we have already paid for those nights. We found an internet shop in Trogir and started booking spots for the remainder of our vacation. We will take a boat to Split tomorrow, explore the town and then head back north on Thursday.
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Okrug Gornji here we are!
August 2, 2010
Well, we are here and while it is not what we had expected, we are going to make the most of our time here. Today we decided to just explore the nearby town of Trogir. We walked along the rocky beach from our apartment here in Okrug Gornji, stepping over sun-bathers, to the ferry dock and took a boat for the 15 minute trip to Trogir. It is a cute little town with a Roman fortress, lots of narrow alleys to explore, restaurants galore, and a wide palm-tree lined promenade all along the shoreline. Apparently this is a destination for celebrities who arrive on their large yachts. We had lunch in a little alley cafe and then headed back.
This afternoon we found out how to take a ferry to Split and drove across the island to find the dock. Driving across the island was very stressful for me and I wasn't even the driver! Narrow roads, no shoulders, motorcycles weaving in and out, cars squeezing by each other and pedestrians all over the road made me crazy. I thought after 36 years of marriage that I knew everything there was to know about Denis, but I learned today that he can be perfectly calm and rational in crazy situations. We plan to make the trip there again on Wednesday and spend the day in Split.
While we are not sure if this area was bombed during the civil war in the early 1990's, there certainly seems to be evidence of it. Most buildings seem to have new red tile roofs. There are lots of vacant lots with old foundations on them, and piles of rubble, now overgrown with weeds. Many of the local roads are a patchwork of rough concrete and asphalt--a real mess. What these people endured is unimaginable, especially for me when I think of my peaceful, tidy neighbourhood.
Tomorrow we are heading to Krk National Park where we can swim in the waterfalls. Should be fun.
Highlight of the day? Hearing Laura's voice on the phone. :)
Well, we are here and while it is not what we had expected, we are going to make the most of our time here. Today we decided to just explore the nearby town of Trogir. We walked along the rocky beach from our apartment here in Okrug Gornji, stepping over sun-bathers, to the ferry dock and took a boat for the 15 minute trip to Trogir. It is a cute little town with a Roman fortress, lots of narrow alleys to explore, restaurants galore, and a wide palm-tree lined promenade all along the shoreline. Apparently this is a destination for celebrities who arrive on their large yachts. We had lunch in a little alley cafe and then headed back.
This afternoon we found out how to take a ferry to Split and drove across the island to find the dock. Driving across the island was very stressful for me and I wasn't even the driver! Narrow roads, no shoulders, motorcycles weaving in and out, cars squeezing by each other and pedestrians all over the road made me crazy. I thought after 36 years of marriage that I knew everything there was to know about Denis, but I learned today that he can be perfectly calm and rational in crazy situations. We plan to make the trip there again on Wednesday and spend the day in Split.
While we are not sure if this area was bombed during the civil war in the early 1990's, there certainly seems to be evidence of it. Most buildings seem to have new red tile roofs. There are lots of vacant lots with old foundations on them, and piles of rubble, now overgrown with weeds. Many of the local roads are a patchwork of rough concrete and asphalt--a real mess. What these people endured is unimaginable, especially for me when I think of my peaceful, tidy neighbourhood.
Tomorrow we are heading to Krk National Park where we can swim in the waterfalls. Should be fun.
Highlight of the day? Hearing Laura's voice on the phone. :)
Culturre Shock in Croatia
August 1, 2010
Culture Shock in Croatia
We spent a long day driving on the autostrada, all the way from Venice to Trogir, near Split, here in Croatia. Coming through Slovenia on the way was particularly scenic--green hillsides and small meadows and red-roofed villages. Most of the trip through central Croatia was quite boring as we were on the motorway, and the landscape is fairly uniform with dry rocky hills and lots of tunnels.
Arriving in Trogir and making our way to the apartment we have rented for a week in Okrug Gornji, a small resort town on the island of Ciovo, was quite an experience. To say the roads in this area are narrow is an understatement. We often had to pull over to make way for oncoming traffic. This town is a jumble of roads which seem like driveways amidst hundreds of apartment blocks. We finally found the address of the woman who manages this apartment (I rented it from Paul Somebody in Britain), and she took us to the apartment. While it is, I suppose, exactly as was described on the website, it is not as lovely as I had expected. The beach is only 50 metres away, true, but it is a narrow rocky bit of shoreline jam packed with tourists and holidayers who love to smoke and get their bodies very brown.
We found a market, bought some groceries and cooked our dinner before heading to bed (a squeaky one). Tomorrow will be better. Feeling a little homesick as we have been away for a month now.
Culture Shock in Croatia
We spent a long day driving on the autostrada, all the way from Venice to Trogir, near Split, here in Croatia. Coming through Slovenia on the way was particularly scenic--green hillsides and small meadows and red-roofed villages. Most of the trip through central Croatia was quite boring as we were on the motorway, and the landscape is fairly uniform with dry rocky hills and lots of tunnels.
Arriving in Trogir and making our way to the apartment we have rented for a week in Okrug Gornji, a small resort town on the island of Ciovo, was quite an experience. To say the roads in this area are narrow is an understatement. We often had to pull over to make way for oncoming traffic. This town is a jumble of roads which seem like driveways amidst hundreds of apartment blocks. We finally found the address of the woman who manages this apartment (I rented it from Paul Somebody in Britain), and she took us to the apartment. While it is, I suppose, exactly as was described on the website, it is not as lovely as I had expected. The beach is only 50 metres away, true, but it is a narrow rocky bit of shoreline jam packed with tourists and holidayers who love to smoke and get their bodies very brown.
We found a market, bought some groceries and cooked our dinner before heading to bed (a squeaky one). Tomorrow will be better. Feeling a little homesick as we have been away for a month now.
Day Two in Venice and a phone call home
July 31, 2010
Day 2 in Venice and a phone call home.
Well, the Villa Stucky redeemed itself. Breakfast was excellent. The room itself was enough, never mind the food. The breakfast room is large with several small round tables, all with pink floor length tablecloths, delicate Murano glass chandeliers and red draperies. We were bad and had dessert for breakfast as these Italians seem to do: apple torte, a Nutella croissant, fruit salad, yogurt, and a mocacchino.
We're old pro's at the train system now :) We arrived in Venice early and decided to just wander our way down the canal instead of taking the vaporetto today. I found the leather purse I had coveted yesterday in a little shop today and it was 3 euros cheaper, so I celebrated by buying a gorgeous scarf too. We spent the morning just poking around, weaving in and out of those narrow little alleys, up and over canals. We had a lousy lunch that I believe Venice is famous for, and wandered some more.
We headed back to the hotel later in the afternoon to see if we could get any internet access, but had no luck. I'm doubtful that we will have wi-fi at our apartment in Croatia so I called and booked two places, one in the Dolomites and one in Rothenburg for the first week in August. I then realized that I really needed internet access and I really needed my first class personal travel agent, so I phoned Andrea for help. It was so good to hear Trevor's voice, to hear Lexi say "hi Grandma" and to talk to Andrea for awhile. Sure miss everyone at home . . .
Had a great dinner in a trattoria just down the street. Cheaper than our lousy lunch.
We're ready to move on from Italy now and are excited about being in Croatia tomorrow. Another new adventure!
Day 2 in Venice and a phone call home.
Well, the Villa Stucky redeemed itself. Breakfast was excellent. The room itself was enough, never mind the food. The breakfast room is large with several small round tables, all with pink floor length tablecloths, delicate Murano glass chandeliers and red draperies. We were bad and had dessert for breakfast as these Italians seem to do: apple torte, a Nutella croissant, fruit salad, yogurt, and a mocacchino.
We're old pro's at the train system now :) We arrived in Venice early and decided to just wander our way down the canal instead of taking the vaporetto today. I found the leather purse I had coveted yesterday in a little shop today and it was 3 euros cheaper, so I celebrated by buying a gorgeous scarf too. We spent the morning just poking around, weaving in and out of those narrow little alleys, up and over canals. We had a lousy lunch that I believe Venice is famous for, and wandered some more.
We headed back to the hotel later in the afternoon to see if we could get any internet access, but had no luck. I'm doubtful that we will have wi-fi at our apartment in Croatia so I called and booked two places, one in the Dolomites and one in Rothenburg for the first week in August. I then realized that I really needed internet access and I really needed my first class personal travel agent, so I phoned Andrea for help. It was so good to hear Trevor's voice, to hear Lexi say "hi Grandma" and to talk to Andrea for awhile. Sure miss everyone at home . . .
Had a great dinner in a trattoria just down the street. Cheaper than our lousy lunch.
We're ready to move on from Italy now and are excited about being in Croatia tomorrow. Another new adventure!
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